Left Hind Hut at 3:45 AM, ascending into the cloud, with high wind and snow making route finding awkward, but Scott relentlessly led the way. Couldn't see much from the summit ridge at 11:30 AM; the 4 new belay stations made getting down a real treat. Back down to the Hut at 6:30 PM. Whew. The very next day... not a cloud in the sky: obviously have to go back! Pics show what to expect: https://goo.gl/photos/GCkJKPy1ASqugjx27
North Ridge in early season conditions; climbed in crampons the whole time - never roped up except to rappel.
Went with Denis via sw ridge before all guide books and info. had to route find for the right gully and to get onto the ridge then to get into the ledges etc. 3rd attempt to get to the top,was exciting to make it up such a big peak! Via Lunette lake camping @ the alpine bench above it,water no problem.Larry the rock rambler!
Approach from BC side, nice scramble to the summit. Beat the weather coming down.
9h55 car-to-car from the BC side in perfect weather. It may be more efficient, but it's mostly an ugly approach, both driving through the logging wasteland to the trailhead, and slogging up the talus with no view of the peak. The route itself was a total choss-fest, but it's still a magnificent peak. Scary to think that people climb the east face... Trip report.
In 2012, same date, we were snowed out, this year was perfect weather.
Lots of climbers on the route and of course lots of rock rumbling down.
Not recommended when its busy. Otherwise a great route and amazing vistas.
If dry, as it was during our ascent, it is really just a difficult scramble. Could be comfortably done in a day from the lake Assiniboine approach but bivying at or around the hut is fantastic.
What an amazing experience! Climbed the North Ridge from the Hind Hut. Phenomenal conditions and fantastic weather! Blue bird day! Three other parties on the mountain with us. All summited.
Fun climb but lots of loose and unstable rock. Be prepared for rock fall. Started with three other buddies but half turned back so just myself and one other summited.
Mid August 2012. Failed attempt. Accessed from BC side to climb sw face. Camp at Lunette Lake. Day 2, blue bird day, left camp at 7 am, climb the couloir(still had snow) with the noticeable run off trench below it on looker's right. Difficult, slow going leaving couloir. Lots of climbing through rock bands, if I recall, along the way to the col. Made it about 3400m and had to turn around, running out time. Tried to take a short cut when downclimbing into the alpine bowl on skiers left...but got cliffed out near the end, after going threw lots of rock bands to get there, lucky we found a way to get to our original route. Almost spent the night on the mountain but luckily made it to the top of couloir at dark, and knew where we were going. Was fortunate that my friend had a GPS and navigate our way back to camp. Got back to the lake at 2 am, and took us 19 hours.
Gear: Ice axe, crampons, helmet
There is carns that are largely space out that aren't easy to see, and rocks with ribbons or spray painted, but some the ribbons took us into the wrong direction. Very complex mountain, route-finding skills is a must, easy to lose your route, not for beginners. Recommend GPS, and extra clothing to spend the night on the mountain, and headlamp. LOTS AND LOTS of loose rocks, and cliff bands, and very exposed, almost had a rock that weight about 1 ton hit me that was release by my partner ahead of me.
BEST VIEW I EVER HAD, even though I never summitted.
Great two day trip to Mt. Assiniboine which was in perfect conditions on Sept. 22, 2012. Vern D. and I (Kevin B.) approached from the BC side via Assiniboine Creek and Lake to the Assiniboine/Strom Col. Made this col in 5 hours, dropped the packs and walked to the summit of Mt. Strom, simple walk with great views. Spent Friday night at the Hind Hut; had the whole place to ourselves.
We left the hut at 6am and the temperature was +8. We had great scrambling with dry conditions; we scrambled the full North Ridge route without using the rope. We had prefect conditions, there was the odd small patch of snow/ice, but all easy to avoid.
We made the summit in 4 hours. No wind and a summit temperature of +12. We spent nearly an hour enjoying the summit and descended the SW slopes, on route to Lunette Peak. Took us 4 hours to reach the summit of Lunette Peak from the summit of Assiniboine. The SW face of Assiniboine is a nightmare; crazy loose, very exposed and just plain miserable. From the Lunette/Assiniboine Col scramble up Lunette was better quality rock, easy/moderate ledges were choss, but the steeper rock bands were pretty solid, all scrambled no gear or rope used.
Descent to Lunette Lake was a pain, took about 4 hours from summit to reach tree line, but lots of cliff bands above lake were tiring to traverse around, about 8 hours from Lunette summit to truck.
After many years of dreaming finally joined two friends for a successful climb. The SW Face is lots of Class 5.0-5.2 with some serious route finding and exposure. The main reason why anyone would climb from this side is that you can also tag Lunette Peak, another 11,000er albeit only 270 ft out of the saddle.
great climb in storms, fog and even some sun and snow. Fun scramble for the most part, scrambled the red band.
Perfect weather - slight breeze on the route and calm on the summit, where we spent over an hour taking in the sights and making new friends. The climb down was much more difficult than going up. The red band was an exposed but easy jugfest up a chimney. There were two obvious choices and we chose the one on the right. The grey band had only a few stiff moves but it was quite exposed. A classic climb but a nerve-wracking rubble pile to descend. Could someone please pave that section below the red band? :)
New snow and some verglass made the climbing above the Red Band interesting. Crampons needed, ice axe nice. Perfect weather, except for the wind.
My friend Rod and I climbed the North Ridge in perfect conditions. No need for crampons or ice axe. Lots of loose rock. The day after we summited a Canadian climber was beaned by a rock dislodged by another climber. Mostly a scramble with a couple of pitches worth roping up for. Definitely a beautiful mountain! The "Gmoser Highway" approach hike was scarier to me than anything on the route.
Beautiful weather and perfect conditions. Descended the ridge and spent another night at the hut. Great weekend with Hedd-wyn and Caitlin.
We climbed the N. Ridge via the southern B.C. approach on July 17, under near perfect conditions and descended the S.W. Face.
This completes the big three of Kananaskis vis solo ascents, Mount Joffre, Mount Sir Douglas and Mount Assiniboine. All three are relativley easy climbs, but Assiniboine the easiest for sure. 8200' in and out via the Baymag Mine approach, very scenic and involves some glacier travel, 3200' from the hut on summit day, 4.5 hrs hut to hut, not far off from the record. I rapped three times through the grey bands due to ice. Sepp went up the day before with a couple of clients and turned around due to ice in the gray bands, but most of that was gone Tuesday morning. Stacy went into the hut with me, lot more scenic than we thought it was going to be (wild "port hole" waterfall). The glacier travel was fun. Assinboine Lake is an incredible spot. More folks should consider Assiniboine in Sept, you will likly have the hut and mountain to yourself as we did. This advice was given to me by a friend many years ago, and he was right. 14 people crammed into a hut and (an August weekend in 2006) climbing the same mountain can kind of affect the wilderness experience. We never saw another human, not one for the approach, climb or hike out.
Glad the weather was perfect for my first alpine route. Lots of easy scrambling up to the red band and then it was more fun easy climbing. Descending took longer and more tiring as I ran out of steam. Guess the 2 hours of sleep and 2 granola bars for breakfast was not enough.