Autumn climbing in Hohe Tauern

First day

I have been thinking about this area since some time,searching info's and asking SP members.
The most important thing was of course the weather and avalanche danger.Everything looked good in the second part of October.I knew that it was out of season,but I wanted to avoid crowds on trails and have had possibility of fast trip just now.Me and my 2 climbing friends leaved my town Monday afternoon (20th).We reached Kesselfall Alpenhaus parking next day morning.Buses were running till the end of September so we had to walk on feet to Mooserboden lake.I liked this route very much,but with heavy backsacks it was rather exausting;)) it took us 4 houres.Anyway we didn't have to walk via tunnels,the path is running next to them and you can admire beauty of lakes and the valley with great summits all round.
We reached Heidnische Kirche a little past noon.There is a very comfortable winter room with hot water,electricity,gass cooker and nice bathroom!!we left there some of our heavy not important things,took food for 2 days and decided to reach the same day Heinrich Schweiger Haus winter room and try to climb Wiesbachhorn next day.The Mooserboden dam made a great impression on me,it is wonderful construction.You feel there such a little man;)) especially when we climbed higher..The first 100-200meters were very icy,we had to wear crampons and hit strong at the ice on stones but it worked.Most of the route to the hut was in the snow.It is very steep and airy path..really amazing and dangerous in winter.You have to have perfect conditions to climb there in the snow. It took us about 4 houres (normally 2h).In the upper wnter room there wasn't electricity and gass cooker didn't work.We had to use our own accessories but the atmosphere was very nice;) Unfortunatelly we didn't manage to check the first rocky part called „Klamml” before darkness.

Second day

There were no footmarks on the trail so we had to wait for day light..The day was very short in this deep valley.We were provided by metal poles to very long couloir...Now I know that it wasn't correct one.It had above 200 meters and was very steep.We decided to bulid security places and climb it with the rope.It was really great fun,the snow was perfect ,we could put very deep ice axes and crampons in it.But it took us above 2 houres..;( Finally we reached Kaindlgrat before 13.00pm.
We saw our aim and even the cross on it..but we calculated that we would need about 2,5 houres to reach it..The sun was so strong that snow became very sticky in the short time .When we made a step ,our feet were like big snow shoes..so even plastic plates on crampons didn't work.It didn't look very well specially that we were on narrow snow ridge between 2 glaciers with open cravesses.Perhaps we had the easiest part before us but we decided to turn back..
I would like to come back there in late spring next year again.The summit isn't so difficult but this airy route makes great impression!! We stayed in Heinrich Schweiger Haus overnight..The weather forecast wasn't very good for Thursday,so we were thinking what to do..Stay there and try again despite of the weather or descend and think about next summit,perhaps much dry ,without climbing in snow and icy rocks.

Next days and backing down

Finally we descended to the Heidnische Kirche and made one relaxing day for walking in Mooserboden area.When the fog went down we could admire wonderful sunset and then we knew that it should be great weather again next day;)
Climbing Kempsenkogel (3090) via Max Kirch Weg was really good decision.There were some snow parts but it was enough safe with steel rope and ice axes.This trail was very airy as well and views from the summit amazing.We were enjoying wonderful weather and dry rock in the upper part.The via ferrata on Hohe Tenn starts from Kempsenkogel. It wasn't seen and the upper ridge was under snow.We backed via the same route down.In order to avoid descending to the car by our feet we managed to stop some young worker who was backing to Kaprun from the dam(there were many workers there because of some building).We could admire the beauty of tunnels during the way down to Kesselfall Alpenhaus.So we had a car instead of the bus;)))

I would like to thank for all valuable info's and help to SP members Mathias Zehring,schmid_th and brade!!

Images

View Autumn climbing in Hohe Tauern Image Gallery - 45 Images