Autumn climbing in Hohe Tauern

Autumn climbing in Hohe Tauern

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Oct 21, 2008
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Mixed, Via Ferrata
Seasons Season: Fall

First day

On the trail near Stausse Wasserfallboden
Wiesbachhorn (3564m)
I have been thinking about this area since some time,searching info's and asking SP members.
The most important thing was of course the weather and avalanche danger.Everything looked good in the second part of October.I knew that it was out of season,but I wanted to avoid crowds on trails and have had possibility of fast trip just now.Me and my 2 climbing friends leaved my town Monday afternoon (20th).We reached Kesselfall Alpenhaus parking next day morning.Buses were running till the end of September so we had to walk on feet to Mooserboden lake.I liked this route very much,but with heavy backsacks it was rather exausting;)) it took us 4 houres.Anyway we didn't have to walk via tunnels,the path is running next to them and you can admire beauty of lakes and the valley with great summits all round.
We reached Heidnische Kirche a little past noon.There is a very comfortable winter room with hot water,electricity,gass cooker and nice bathroom!!we left there some of our heavy not important things,took food for 2 days and decided to reach the same day Heinrich Schweiger Haus winter room and try to climb Wiesbachhorn next day.The Mooserboden dam made a great impression on me,it is wonderful construction.You feel there such a little man;)) especially when we climbed higher..The first 100-200meters were very icy,we had to wear crampons and hit strong at the ice on stones but it worked.Most of the route to the hut was in the snow.It is very steep and airy path..really amazing and dangerous in winter.You have to have perfect conditions to climb there in the snow. It took us about 4 houres (normally 2h).In the upper wnter room there wasn't electricity and gass cooker didn't work.We had to use our own accessories but the atmosphere was very nice;) Unfortunatelly we didn't manage to check the first rocky part called „Klamml” before darkness.

Second day

Descending from Heinrich Schweiger Haus
On Kaindlgrat
There were no footmarks on the trail so we had to wait for day light..The day was very short in this deep valley.We were provided by metal poles to very long couloir...Now I know that it wasn't correct one.It had above 200 meters and was very steep.We decided to bulid security places and climb it with the rope.It was really great fun,the snow was perfect ,we could put very deep ice axes and crampons in it.But it took us above 2 houres..;( Finally we reached Kaindlgrat before 13.00pm.
We saw our aim and even the cross on it..but we calculated that we would need about 2,5 houres to reach it..The sun was so strong that snow became very sticky in the short time .When we made a step ,our feet were like big snow even plastic plates on crampons didn't work.It didn't look very well specially that we were on narrow snow ridge between 2 glaciers with open cravesses.Perhaps we had the easiest part before us but we decided to turn back..
I would like to come back there in late spring next year again.The summit isn't so difficult but this airy route makes great impression!! We stayed in Heinrich Schweiger Haus overnight..The weather forecast wasn't very good for Thursday,so we were thinking what to do..Stay there and try again despite of the weather or descend and think about next summit,perhaps much dry ,without climbing in snow and icy rocks.

Next days and backing down

Max Kirch Weg on Kempsenkogel
On Max Kirch Weg,descent from Kempsenkogel
Finally we descended to the Heidnische Kirche and made one relaxing day for walking in Mooserboden area.When the fog went down we could admire wonderful sunset and then we knew that it should be great weather again next day;)
Climbing Kempsenkogel (3090) via Max Kirch Weg was really good decision.There were some snow parts but it was enough safe with steel rope and ice axes.This trail was very airy as well and views from the summit amazing.We were enjoying wonderful weather and dry rock in the upper part.The via ferrata on Hohe Tenn starts from Kempsenkogel. It wasn't seen and the upper ridge was under snow.We backed via the same route down.In order to avoid descending to the car by our feet we managed to stop some young worker who was backing to Kaprun from the dam(there were many workers there because of some building).We could admire the beauty of tunnels during the way down to Kesselfall Alpenhaus.So we had a car instead of the bus;)))

I would like to thank for all valuable info's and help to SP members Mathias Zehring,schmid_th and brade!!


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Viewing: 1-6 of 6

kamil - Nov 1, 2008 7:06 pm - Voted 10/10

Brawo Iwona!

Great report of a wonderful trip, and a good and wise decision to bail out, the mountain is still there waiting for you!
Gratuluję świetnego rozpoznania i przygotowania, wszystko super zaplanowane, zupełnie odwrotnie niż... wiesz kto i co :)


Ivona - Nov 2, 2008 4:18 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Brawo Iwona!

thanks Kamil!! It was my little dream for this autumn..and it came true!There are more new dreams now;)))lot of work;)
To byla cudowna podroz,pogoda zyleta..prognoza sprawdzila sie w 100%.To bajkowa dolina i juz nie moge sie doczekac az tam wroce na wiosne...tyle jeszcze tam do zrobienia!
Ja bylam tez przez pol drogi kierowca i w ogole logistykiem calej jestem troche maniakiem planowania i zbierania info o miejscu zanim tam pojade.Co oczywiscie nie oznacza ze nie stac mnie na spontan;)tylko wiesz na wariata to ja juz sie wybralam na Grossa w tamtym roku i wszystko bylo takie nieposkladane..Nie chcialabym tego powtarzac.Ale czytalam niedawno Twoj raport z wyjazdu na Grossa..i musze przyznac ze masz fantazje;)w ogole jestem fanka Twoich balkanskich przygod!!tak trzymaj!
pozdrawiam cieplo

Mathias Zehring

Mathias Zehring - Nov 2, 2008 1:19 pm - Voted 10/10


thank you for this nice report including some valuable information and great pictures. I'm glad you enjoyed your trip though you could not reach the summit. I'm surprised that no one did attack Wiesbachhorn NW face that weekend so you were alone.


Ivona - Nov 2, 2008 2:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Fine!

yes we were alone during 5 days!and also surprised that inspite of nearly 2 weeks perfect and stable weather without stronger snowing there were no visible footmarks on this route! Incredible..Perhaps then we could see the right ascent to Kaindlgrat and it would be faster..Anyway we reached other very nice summit in this area,so nothing lost;)I hope to be there again in spring and try Wiesbachhorn one more time.The route to Hocheiser seemed to be also very nice from Mooserboden side


georgen - Nov 5, 2008 12:11 pm - Voted 10/10

Good report

and nice pictures.Your trip report reminded me that I did couple of easy climbs in this area 10 years ago.Next time you can try traverse Gr.Wiesbachhorn-Klockerin-Gruberscharte bivouac-Oberwalder hut.Not diffulcut/PD-/but great views.


Ivona - Nov 5, 2008 12:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good report

thanks for your comment!yes,I have read also about this traverse and thought that it could be wonderful trip..I like this area very much,so it is highly propable that I will make such route someday

Viewing: 1-6 of 6



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