Great trip with 5 other people that I had never met before, connected by SP and arranged online. One of the best climbs I have been on. The weather took a huge turn for the better when we climbed it after a couple very cold days. I would do this route again!
Climbed and skied Avalanche Gulch in primo conditions. Great snow coverage up there right now.
With a storm system having passed through during the week, but a 2 day window of good weather clearing any potential avalanche conditions, we drove from Corvallis, Oregon to Shasta on a Saturday morning and hiked up to Lake Helena to camp out in preparation for a Sunday morning summit attempt. We got to camp in 15-20 degree temperatures and 25 mph winds. With exhaustion and hypothermia becoming real concerns, we barely slept and bailed the next morning. Conditions were perfect on Sunday morning, but we had no energy left to make it.
rocky approach for the first 4 miles or so then moved on to snow maybe next time i will bring approach shoes
Pretty straight forward climb.
Straightforward climb, up the main Red Banks chimney. Still lots of snow left for this time of year. We didn't witness any rockfall. Windy and cold at Misery Hill. Awesome glissade back to Helen!
Probably the last clear weekend of the season, getting up the chute after the Heart was the hardest due to nearly vertical ice. A storm was coming in during our descent, but awesome glissading.
20hrs RT - most difficult part was from Helen Lake to top of Red Banks. Will be back to do another route next time.
Solo trip. Patchy snow from Bunny Flat becoming nearly continuous at Horse Camp. Hard crispy snow above Helen Lake turning mush by late morning. Lots of parties on the route. Left Bunny Flat 5:30 AM. Summited 10:00 AM. Back to the parking lot at 12:15 PM.
Base camped at Helen Lake with a group of 10 (SMG) climbers. Began our climb at 4 am the next morning. Beautiful sight. Clear weather, lots of stars, moon just above ridgeline, and a string of headlamps heading up the gulch. Reached the 13,500 ft mark but didn't summit on this trip. Team member not feeling well.
Bunny flat to the Summit in one day.
Started at Bunny Flat at 00:05 on Saturday morning. There was 6-8 feet of snow right from the trailhead. Reached horse camp in an hour. It is a very simple walk. The slope gradually increases after horse camp. The last 500-700 ft climb towards Helen Lake is pretty nasty. Reached Helen Lake at 04:00. Had our breakfast.
Geared up with crampons, started from there at 04:30 ish. Hike from Helen Lake to Red Banks is the killer - especially the last part. It is a 2500' straight climb. After the Red Banks, there is another upslope to Misery Hill. Misery hill is relatively simple. Reached the summit at 10:30. There was a ranger on the summit checking permits - so make sure you carry them with you even though you dumped backpacks on the way.
Climbing down was great fun. Gliassaded down ~4500 ft- from Red Banks all the way down to horse camp. The last ditch from horse camp to bunny flat seemed to take forever! Car-to-Car, it took us about 15 hours. It was strenuous - but worth it. The views from the hike up and especially from the summit are uncomparable!
Had taken 130 Oz (4 lit) of Gatorade and a few cliff bars - which was sufficient. I would highly recommend doing it in one day instead of camping at Helen lake or at 50/50. Also, if you want to camp in between, start early - the snow gets ridiculously slushy after late morning - which essentially doubles your effort of climbing. Peace!
Overnighted @ Helen Lake with moderate winds which died around 2:00am. Out of camp by 5:00, solid climb up the gully and to the right of the heart. Breezy but not too bad on top. On descent, the gulch was too icy to glisade but lower got a 500' glisade to camp. Then it was too warm an slushy for anything else. Good Route!
went for a two day trip making camp at Helen Lake. high winds all day on day 1 to get to camp but forecast called for a clear window the next morning, forecast was wrong! had to bail! will be back and beautiful mountain
Went up from Helen Lake where I camped in September. I was intimidated by the Red Banks before going but it wasn't difficult at all. Maybe it was a little sketchy on the way down because of some ice but it was fine. Looking at the photos on this site, it looks like normally there is wayyyy more snow on Shasta than when I climbed it. I'd like to try again for an even more killer glissade! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!
From Horse Camp. My first time up the cattle trail :) Great views and awesome glissade !
Have also descended or glissaded this route several times after climbing other routes.
Encountered water ice at Redbanks that I was certain (and wrong) would thaw later in the day. Ended up making the trip several hours longer. Beautiful Summit. I must revisit this place.
Climbed with a few guys for my bachelor party 4 days before my wedding. Fiancé wasn't too excited about the cool sunglasses tan and sunburned nose for our pictures. Great learning experience for me. Now I climb Shasta every year trying out different routes.
First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
After 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.