Starting at 3:25 am I started the climb from Helen Lake. The night was perfect and the weather too. The snow had time to freeze back making it easy to walk over and not slide with crampons. Because my partner did not feel well, i went up by myself, as I was moving up the initial slope toward the bottom of the heart i contemplated going left, under the Red Banks, rather than right and over, the classic route.
As i came close to it i opted for left and under. That route is more exposed and more challenging. It is maybe also a little longer and not for people that are using their crampon for the first time. It is a long hike on an inclined slope that get steeper as you get up. It is clearly more technical than the classic route. Your ankles are going to feel it.
Part of the challenge is as you get toward the top of the heart, is to make sure you take the right path under the Red Banks so that you are going up stable snow. I came down the normal route on the right side of the heart and the snow was consistent from top to bottom of the slope, but on the left side this was not the case. As i was getting up and closer to the top, I decide to exit on the left side and up to the ridge. Going straight under the top ridge and out felt more exposed than i wanted. It took me 3.45hours for me from Helen Lake to the top of this route. That day i was the only one to go up that route.
Once out then joined misery hill to the summit plateau. On my way to misery hill, I passed by where last year my friend Rick and I exited the Whitney glacier.
Great day, great climb!
Avalanche Gulch up. Spectacular glissade down
We started climbing from lake Helen at 2:30am. Almost immediately it became a whiteout and it was hard to find the boot tracks. We started following a group ahead of us but after about an hour we got off track. My partner had all trails the phone app and so we were about to traverse right and find the well established boot track. It took us 3 hrs to get to thumb rock and the bergschrund was barley navigable. From there it cleared and took us. 1 hr 40 mins to the top. Overall great climb but wouldn’t have made it past thumb rock if the weather hadn’t cleared. Also would have taken one of the chutes in the red banks if I were to go again, we just got lucky that it was a late season.
Great route climbed on May 11th. there was a lot of ice fall mid day a climber actually got air lifted out from a fall at Red Banks... but great hike I Made a video along the way check it out!
Camped at Helen. Started about 6:30am. Summited at 12. Had an AMAZING ski down lookers left of the Heart (Perfect corn from 13k to 8k). Good number of people on the mountain but definitely didn't feel crowded at all.
Friend and I tried to do a strike mission from sea level to summiting Shasta in under 24hrs.
Started at Bunny Flat around 5am. Got up to Misery at 2pm and turned back due to time and AMS. Got back to the car at 7pm with stopping at 11,200ft to nap for 25minutes and refill water from runoff.
There was enough snow and two solid ice patches in the Red Banks to climb straight up through.
Pretty sure we would have made it if we'd acclimatized since the weekend before we'd both done 4k climbs+descents at altitude under 4hrs, but with at least a day and night at 5-7k before.
Started around 3:40 at Bunny Flat. Snow started right around Horse Camp. Skinning was a bit of a strugglefest through parts of the gulch and we switched to crampons before Lake Helen. Headwall was filled with people who had likely turned around at the top of the Red Banks. Got hit on the arm by a decent-sized ice ball.
Extremely windy towards the top, especially with skis strapped to our packs. Summitted around 10:40 and started skiing around 13,800 feet. A bit icy up top, but all in all, 6000 feet of glorious descent. Felt the elevation and the morning struggles fade away with each turn.
The few times I’ve done this route I’ve found less climbers equals more fun.
My first mountaineering climb. Great weather. Started summit ascent at 9,400'. Took 16 hours total to make it back to the trailhead.
Altitude grabbed me at the top of the red banks! Coming back next year though
Red Banks Chimneys variation.
Clear weather. I think everybody who tried summitted that day. However the next day was foggy and everyone turned back.
Beautiful, sunny, warm, calm day. Route snow-covered, beginning to end. Hard on the way in, soft on the way out. For a moment, I imagined John Muir on the route during his historic climb.
Lots of snow all the way from Bunny Flat Trailhead. Straightforward climb but is very crowded.
Tristan and I summited via Avalanche Gulch route. Spent night at Helen Lake and left for summit at 330a. Route above Helen Lake was icy and hard. To mix things up, ice climbed through one of the middle Red Banks chutes. Little to no snow above Red Banks made Misery Hill and summit pinnacle straight forward and painless. Down the route and back to car at Bunny Flat by noon.
Finally got around to climbing Shasta. Busy weekend on the mountain, but I enjoyed a fun, scenic, and warm dayhike from Sand Flat, up AG, and then down the West Face Gully.
Lucked out and got a winter accent of mt Shasta in
Drove all night from San Diego , hit breakfast at hi/lo. Left trailhead at 9, long stop and Horse camp. mellow pace , hit snow about 3/4 mile up from horse camp , stayed on left in gully to Helen Lake. 5 tents or so, great sleep. Should have stuck to early start plan, left camp at 6. Recommend 4. Hit banks 2 from climbers right. Summit! warm as heck on way down, postholing on misery hill. Went almost all the way climbers right, but berg pulled most out on top so we went one from right then cut through rocks.. glisade all the way to camp (thankfully). So hot, applied sunblock tons, but did not get lips.. stupid and sucks. boiled , packed and walked out. Great trip. Met a 68 year old women killing it on the climb!!
From 9600 camp, this one would have been better as a day trip.
Many, many times