First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
After 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.
Back in the States for under a week and nickL "talked" me into climbing. Didnt take much, after looking up at 18'000' peaks for 6 months I was ready to go as soon as I got home.
Fantastic weather both days of the trip. Camped at Lake Helen on day 1, left for the top at 3:00 am day 2. We were able to follow a tiny stripe of snow that hadnt melted yet to the right of the heart and all the way to the top of the Red Banks. Stoked on my first 14 er!
Shredder and I did an extremely dry hike up the face, very loose, bivied right at the Red Banks on a ledge I made us. Lots of rockfall, we had to take cover above Helen lake a few times.
Watched a gal buy it from Cassaval the day before thanksgiving. RIP.
Been here 4 times, only successful once. Two failures due to weather, one due to a late start and extra cold conditions.
Seriously, the weather could not have been better for this trip. Perfectly clear skies, low winds and good snow made for a safe and beautiful ascent. We left Lake Helen around 4:45 and summited at 9:15. A low-wind, high-sun summit made for a nice rest before glissading down to Helen. The forest service rangers had a constant presence, always making sure climbers were safe and having fun (as well as checking for summit passes of course). My husband spoke with one of the rangers at length about an intense winter rescue some years ago. We were blessed to have such excellent weather yesterday.
Rocked it with Summit for Someone, awesome route, awesome group. If you're looking for a guide, SMG is excellent.
I summited with Forjan via Casaval ridge and we used Avy Gulch for our descent. The glissade down was awesome. The snow was a little mushy past Lake Helen.
skin up. stay at lake helen. maybe 20 for a low overnight. climb up. summit. light a match on the summit. blow it out. look around. laugh. ski down. perfect snow on the gulch. as The Flight of the Concords say, "Conditions were perfect". will have to do the chutes next time.
My first time on Crampons and using an ice axe. Learned what a long day in the mountains is
Ticked for the list should have climbed it another way or done it in better snow on skies.
7 times and counting...
Climbed several times via this route. Always crowded.
All worth it for the glissade. Whiteout on top with most people choosing to go back down from the Red Banks.
…my only snow ascent
the route had good traffic. on the way up, we watched two people slip and ride the express train all the way to the bottom of the gulch.
First attempt on Shasta...We made the summit under very strong winds