Lucked out and got a winter accent of mt Shasta in
Drove all night from San Diego , hit breakfast at hi/lo. Left trailhead at 9, long stop and Horse camp. mellow pace , hit snow about 3/4 mile up from horse camp , stayed on left in gully to Helen Lake. 5 tents or so, great sleep. Should have stuck to early start plan, left camp at 6. Recommend 4. Hit banks 2 from climbers right. Summit! warm as heck on way down, postholing on misery hill. Went almost all the way climbers right, but berg pulled most out on top so we went one from right then cut through rocks.. glisade all the way to camp (thankfully). So hot, applied sunblock tons, but did not get lips.. stupid and sucks. boiled , packed and walked out. Great trip. Met a 68 year old women killing it on the climb!!
From 9600 camp, this one would have been better as a day trip.
Many, many times
35 mile an hour winds on our summit bid. But we made it.
Ticked off December for a climb of Mount Shasta during every calendar month over a period of several years. This trip was cold, dark, and frankly horrid climbing even without the -38 wind chill in the forecast. Chose this route simply to minimize the wind... think I'm done with this area for Decembers!
Also nice overnight trip in fairly cold but good conditions on February 2, 2013. Went left of The Heart which was a lot more interesting when traversing under the Red Banks than the standard route.
Also got my first winter ascent in after many trips up the mountain on January 20, 2013. Great conditions... long dayhike.
And did this route on June 7, 2003 and August 7, 2005.
With the little brother, camped at Helen's lake. Greatness.
Second time on the mountain. First successful summit. Looking to climb the Casaval Ridge next month. Can't wait to try that route out.
in winter conditions. I see where the route gets its name...
Definitely the least technical way to climb Shasta. The soft dirt under the rocks is a pain to navigate cuz the slopes are so steep and the angle of repose of the rocks is at a treacherous level. I didn't like the red ledges at all. I thought they were nerve racking. But that mountain was a beast to climb
Tried to climb in march,had white out conditions.Came back in June to a beautiful blue bird day and had a great climb.Clear skies Good snow pack.
Great trip with 5 other people that I had never met before, connected by SP and arranged online. One of the best climbs I have been on. The weather took a huge turn for the better when we climbed it after a couple very cold days. I would do this route again!
Climbed and skied Avalanche Gulch in primo conditions. Great snow coverage up there right now.
With a storm system having passed through during the week, but a 2 day window of good weather clearing any potential avalanche conditions, we drove from Corvallis, Oregon to Shasta on a Saturday morning and hiked up to Lake Helena to camp out in preparation for a Sunday morning summit attempt. We got to camp in 15-20 degree temperatures and 25 mph winds. With exhaustion and hypothermia becoming real concerns, we barely slept and bailed the next morning. Conditions were perfect on Sunday morning, but we had no energy left to make it.
rocky approach for the first 4 miles or so then moved on to snow maybe next time i will bring approach shoes
Pretty straight forward climb.
Straightforward climb, up the main Red Banks chimney. Still lots of snow left for this time of year. We didn't witness any rockfall. Windy and cold at Misery Hill. Awesome glissade back to Helen!
Probably the last clear weekend of the season, getting up the chute after the Heart was the hardest due to nearly vertical ice. A storm was coming in during our descent, but awesome glissading.
20hrs RT - most difficult part was from Helen Lake to top of Red Banks. Will be back to do another route next time.