went for a two day trip making camp at Helen Lake. high winds all day on day 1 to get to camp but forecast called for a clear window the next morning, forecast was wrong! had to bail! will be back and beautiful mountain
LadyWawa - Jan 27, 2011 11:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2010
Weeeee Avi-Gulch
Went up from Helen Lake where I camped in September. I was intimidated by the Red Banks before going but it wasn't difficult at all. Maybe it was a little sketchy on the way down because of some ice but it was fine. Looking at the photos on this site, it looks like normally there is wayyyy more snow on Shasta than when I climbed it. I'd like to try again for an even more killer glissade! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!
From Horse Camp. My first time up the cattle trail :) Great views and awesome glissade !
Have also descended or glissaded this route several times after climbing other routes.
Mike Lewis - Nov 16, 2010 2:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2010
Avalanches in the gulch
Encountered water ice at Redbanks that I was certain (and wrong) would thaw later in the day. Ended up making the trip several hours longer. Beautiful Summit. I must revisit this place.
myjudge - Oct 27, 2010 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2004
first time on a 14er
Climbed with a few guys for my bachelor party 4 days before my wedding. Fiancé wasn't too excited about the cool sunglasses tan and sunburned nose for our pictures. Great learning experience for me. Now I climb Shasta every year trying out different routes.
Paul86 - Sep 14, 2010 1:15 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010
Amazing Climb!
First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
JHH60 - Aug 17, 2010 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010
Late Season
After 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
DougBenton - Jul 9, 2010 4:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2010
Solo climb!
Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.
JustinW - Jun 20, 2010 12:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
First 14er
Back in the States for under a week and nickL "talked" me into climbing. Didnt take much, after looking up at 18'000' peaks for 6 months I was ready to go as soon as I got home.
nickL - Jun 12, 2010 4:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
Summer AG
Fantastic weather both days of the trip. Camped at Lake Helen on day 1, left for the top at 3:00 am day 2. We were able to follow a tiny stripe of snow that hadnt melted yet to the right of the heart and all the way to the top of the Red Banks. Stoked on my first 14 er!
Shredder and I did an extremely dry hike up the face, very loose, bivied right at the Red Banks on a ledge I made us. Lots of rockfall, we had to take cover above Helen lake a few times.
SKI - Dec 26, 2009 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007
RIP
Watched a gal buy it from Cassaval the day before thanksgiving. RIP.
SFMountaineer - Aug 4, 2009 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009
4 times
Been here 4 times, only successful once. Two failures due to weather, one due to a late start and extra cold conditions.
Seriously, the weather could not have been better for this trip. Perfectly clear skies, low winds and good snow made for a safe and beautiful ascent. We left Lake Helen around 4:45 and summited at 9:15. A low-wind, high-sun summit made for a nice rest before glissading down to Helen. The forest service rangers had a constant presence, always making sure climbers were safe and having fun (as well as checking for summit passes of course). My husband spoke with one of the rangers at length about an intense winter rescue some years ago. We were blessed to have such excellent weather yesterday.
zplustwo - Jun 16, 2009 10:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
AG
Rocked it with Summit for Someone, awesome route, awesome group. If you're looking for a guide, SMG is excellent.
Blackmouth - May 25, 2009 2:33 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2009
Awesome Glissade
I summited with Forjan via Casaval ridge and we used Avy Gulch for our descent. The glissade down was awesome. The snow was a little mushy past Lake Helen.
peerzat - May 3, 2009 4:24 pm Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009
perfect conditions are so nice
skin up. stay at lake helen. maybe 20 for a low overnight. climb up. summit. light a match on the summit. blow it out. look around. laugh. ski down. perfect snow on the gulch. as The Flight of the Concords say, "Conditions were perfect". will have to do the chutes next time.
jonmeek16 - Apr 10, 2011 12:32 pm Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2011
stuffed from high windswent for a two day trip making camp at Helen Lake. high winds all day on day 1 to get to camp but forecast called for a clear window the next morning, forecast was wrong! had to bail! will be back and beautiful mountain
LadyWawa - Jan 27, 2011 11:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2010
Weeeee Avi-GulchWent up from Helen Lake where I camped in September. I was intimidated by the Red Banks before going but it wasn't difficult at all. Maybe it was a little sketchy on the way down because of some ice but it was fine. Looking at the photos on this site, it looks like normally there is wayyyy more snow on Shasta than when I climbed it. I'd like to try again for an even more killer glissade! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!
rhyang - Dec 20, 2010 11:27 am
June 2004From Horse Camp. My first time up the cattle trail :) Great views and awesome glissade !
Have also descended or glissaded this route several times after climbing other routes.
Mike Lewis - Nov 16, 2010 2:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2010
Avalanches in the gulchEncountered water ice at Redbanks that I was certain (and wrong) would thaw later in the day. Ended up making the trip several hours longer. Beautiful Summit. I must revisit this place.
myjudge - Oct 27, 2010 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2004
first time on a 14erClimbed with a few guys for my bachelor party 4 days before my wedding. Fiancé wasn't too excited about the cool sunglasses tan and sunburned nose for our pictures. Great learning experience for me. Now I climb Shasta every year trying out different routes.
Paul86 - Sep 14, 2010 1:15 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010
Amazing Climb!First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
JHH60 - Aug 17, 2010 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010
Late SeasonAfter 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
DougBenton - Jul 9, 2010 4:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2010
Solo climb!Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.
JustinW - Jun 20, 2010 12:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
First 14erBack in the States for under a week and nickL "talked" me into climbing. Didnt take much, after looking up at 18'000' peaks for 6 months I was ready to go as soon as I got home.
nickL - Jun 12, 2010 4:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
Summer AGFantastic weather both days of the trip. Camped at Lake Helen on day 1, left for the top at 3:00 am day 2. We were able to follow a tiny stripe of snow that hadnt melted yet to the right of the heart and all the way to the top of the Red Banks. Stoked on my first 14 er!
theAxeman - Jan 3, 2010 11:11 am
Dry slogShredder and I did an extremely dry hike up the face, very loose, bivied right at the Red Banks on a ledge I made us. Lots of rockfall, we had to take cover above Helen lake a few times.
SKI - Dec 26, 2009 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007
RIPWatched a gal buy it from Cassaval the day before thanksgiving. RIP.
SFMountaineer - Aug 4, 2009 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009
4 timesBeen here 4 times, only successful once. Two failures due to weather, one due to a late start and extra cold conditions.
iditarod81 - Jul 27, 2009 3:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
Fabulous weather.Seriously, the weather could not have been better for this trip. Perfectly clear skies, low winds and good snow made for a safe and beautiful ascent. We left Lake Helen around 4:45 and summited at 9:15. A low-wind, high-sun summit made for a nice rest before glissading down to Helen. The forest service rangers had a constant presence, always making sure climbers were safe and having fun (as well as checking for summit passes of course). My husband spoke with one of the rangers at length about an intense winter rescue some years ago. We were blessed to have such excellent weather yesterday.
zplustwo - Jun 16, 2009 10:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
AGRocked it with Summit for Someone, awesome route, awesome group. If you're looking for a guide, SMG is excellent.
Blackmouth - May 25, 2009 2:33 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2009
Awesome GlissadeI summited with Forjan via Casaval ridge and we used Avy Gulch for our descent. The glissade down was awesome. The snow was a little mushy past Lake Helen.
peerzat - May 3, 2009 4:24 pm Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009
perfect conditions are so niceskin up. stay at lake helen. maybe 20 for a low overnight. climb up. summit. light a match on the summit. blow it out. look around. laugh. ski down. perfect snow on the gulch. as The Flight of the Concords say, "Conditions were perfect". will have to do the chutes next time.
gomez13 - Apr 20, 2009 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2000
First TimeMy first time on Crampons and using an ice axe. Learned what a long day in the mountains is
sierrasclimber - Apr 7, 2009 10:41 pm
Lame on footTicked for the list should have climbed it another way or done it in better snow on skies.
OWilderness - Dec 10, 2008 3:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2007
Climbed it7 times and counting...