Back In Black : Jakosiri - Chachacomani traverse by the south ridges

Overview

A stunning mixed route on excellent rock offering incredible views on the altiplano. This route follows the south ridge of the Jakosiri, a 5900m summit just in front of the Chachacomani, then traverses the Jakosiri summit and takes the south ridge of the Sentinel (foresummit of Chachacomani) towards the summit.

The route was first climbed by Alexis Collette and Jules Jenner on the 25th of may 2016. We named it "Back in Black" because the bad weather in the morning mede us start late (9 a.m.) and we reached the summit by night. We got lost on the way down (normally easy) and had to cross huge crevasses and climb down big ice walls.

Getting There

The route starts from the same base camp as the normal NW face route, which is situated at the end of the glacier on the south side of the mountain (5130m)

Reaching the base camp

From the village of Alto Cruz Pampa (seek guidance from locals to reach there, we recommend asking at the parish of the village of Peñas), follow the valley on the left (path) then cross to the other side when you reach a sandbank. Follow the valley still for half an hour along 15m cliffs. Go up on the left then to reach a hanging valley (path if you find it!). Go up this valley for half an hour then on the right follow a moraine leading to the altitude camp (more and more cairns as you go up). The camp is just at the foot of the glacier.

Route Description

Start of the route (2h)

Ascend the glacier following the normal route until a plateau around 5450m. Cross toards east aiming at a distinctive breach at the lowest of the south ridge of the Jakosiri. Reach the foot of this breach (5600m)

South ridge of Jakosiri (4h)

The description is well detailed, but a simple overview could be: follow the ridge as much as you can!

The wall rising up to the breach offers two "cracks". Climb the one on the left (IV+, sustained) and reach the ridge. Cross a breach on the right of the first pinnacle which is bypassed by a tricky flake,then on the ridge (IV+, 30 m exposed). Then follow easy mixed ground to reach a small secondary summit.

Remark: You can reach this secondary summit directly by ascending a snow slode (60°), which allows to bypass the exposed part, but you miss a very beautiful part of the climb.

Follow the ridge (II and III), some parts can be bypassed lower on the right (not recommended as it is easy and enjoyable climbing). The third pinnacle is bypassed first onits right via nice orange slabs (IV) leading to the ridge (III+) until the foot of the fourth pinnacle.

Find a small breach giving access to the left hand side of the ridge (to find it : follow the easiest ground!). Traverse for a few meters, then climb a short crack with flakes (IV+), traverse again, downclimb 2 m to reach a crack with an unstable flake. Don't use this flake, but still climb the crack (5 m, 5a). Reach a hole that allows to do down to the other side of the ridge. Traverse and climb some easy ground to reach the ridge again. End of the rock.

Follow the snow ridg to a couloir (65°). Traverse then below the ridge (cornices) to the top of the Jakosiri (5910 m)

Jakosiri Traverse (1h)

Follow the ridge or a bit lower on the right, beware of the cornices! Only the penultimate summit is bypassed on the left, 5 m below. Beautiful views on the altiplano and the south face (where only two routes exists for the moment). From the last summit, go down on the left following a steep snow slope (60°), cross the bergschrund the best you can and rach the col at 5850m at the foot of the south ridge of the Sentinel (The sentinel is the beautiful triangular face facing the normal route of the Chachacomani)

Sentinel south ridge and Chachacimani summit (1h30)

Globally, staying close to the ridge allows to find the most beautiful climbing.

Ascend the snowy ridge up to the first rocks. You can bypass them on the right by snow slopes or follow them jut below the ridge. A breach leads to the other side of the ridge (III). Follow the ridge then for 4/5 m (III) and traverse on the left a tricky slab (IV, few holds for the feets). Reach a short snow couloir (50/60°) and climb back on the ridge. Traverse on the left on mixed ground to reach another couloir (60°, 5/6 m). From its top, the ridge is easy until you reach the final wall. Climb a short wall with flakes (5a, 1-2m) the reach a breach. This is the end of the difficulties.

Follow then the ridge to the top of the Chachacomani (6074 m)

Descent (2h30) Go down by the normal route

Essential Gear

Nuts, a few friends, slings, glacier gear

External Links

NW face route description (french) : https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/369134/fr/chachacomani-face-nw

Video of the climb: https://youtu.be/7EmVVbVolHI?t=220