Found a boulder strewn gully to ascend from the road. From there it's through the timber to the ridge and then the path of least resistance. Nice summit area with exceptional views of some local favorites.
NE Ridge via Lake Kelcema
Started up a creek bed on the east slope shortly after the switchback on Deer Creek Road. Gained the ne ridge eventually and made the summit from there.
Attempted to gain the ridge from Kelcema Lake. Took the lake trail, got to the lake, took a left along the lake shore. Headed up the first boulder field. Went for awhile but after 1 hour of devils club, turned back down. Found a narrow gully. Went up that until I was on class 3 rock with wet moss, eventually it cliffed out. At this point I ran out of time. Jumped in Kelcema Lake to clean off the nasty experience... Won't be back for awhile... I understand that there is another route, I just thought to give the lake approach a go...
Climbed the NE ridge, starting from Kelcema Lake. Large slabs on SE slopes are very impressive!
1st attempt (Feb 21, 2009) - Josh Lewis and I made it to within a hundred vertical feet of the summit. The knife-edge ridge was snow covered and proved to be too technical to attempt without protection. We traversed over to the north ridge in hopes of finding a safer route but were faced with the same degree of difficulty.
2nd attempt (Jun 3, 2011) - I took Michael Lewis to the northeast ridge. This time we made it to within 30 feet of the summit before unsafe snow conditions forced us to turn around.
3rd attempt (Sep 12, 2012) - Don't try this peak unless you are in a masochistic mood. What kind of bushes can untie your boot laces twice? I came back solo and came very close to the summit this time. Next time I'm bringing a rope.
Success (July 21, 2014) - I brought Heather and Bryan and a rope and protection this time. Bryan turned around but Heather belayed me as I protected a the exposed section of the ridge. Using a rope might have been overkill, but slings on the route tell me I'm not the only one. We simul-climbed on the descent. I'm never coming back to this peak. Glad it's finally over.
I would bring a machete when the snow is gone. :)