Bartlrisse is a fantastic steep and exposed classical route in the Lechnermauern face on Rax. It offers 270m of sustained crack climbing, one overhang (the crux) and one funny chimney. What makes the climb so worthy is the good rock, a nice logical line, nearly constant difficulties and breathtaking exposure. The neighbouring Kowelkapfeiler is even more exposed, but not as constant and straight.
The wall of Lechnermauern looks to south-east and is very sunny, thus ideal for late autumn climbing. After climbing in most of the popular locations in the Rax-Schneeberg group, Lechnermauern are my favorite. Rough rock with strange and wonderful structures, steep routes, the broad view over the huge Rax plateau and demanding adventurous climbing. It is hard to describe - try it yourself.
- Through Großes Höllental and Gaisloch to the Dirnbacher hut. Gaisloch is a short ferrata, often wet. 2.5h
- Over Wachthüttelkamm. Very long, only useful if there is a waterfall in Gaisloch. 3h
- Using the cable car from Hirschwang. 1h
From Dirnbacher hut
continue in the direction Klobentörl
. 100m after a sharp right-turn, at a stone-man, there is a narrow path on the left, leading to the walls. Bartlrisse and Kowelkapfeiler start just before you reach a broad red couloir. 0.5h
First ascent: W. Bartl, P. Skladal in 1954. Height difference: 270m
1. 55m, 6-. Slabs lead to a dihedral. Runouts on easy terrain.
2. 30m, 4+. Through a small cave, then left around the corner.
3. 30m, 6. Steep, exhausting cracks with good holds.
4. 30m, 6. A tricky slab to the next impressive crack.
5. 30m, 6+. Through the roof of a cave without floor, very exposed. Slightly to the left after the crux.
6. 30m, 5. A funny chimney.
7. 30m, 5. Nice ridge left of the couloir, no protection (nuts, slings). Just one difficult move, the rest is easy.
Bartlrisse is a classical, but well protected route with many pitons and some bolts. Nuts are useful for the part after crux, and additional slings for the clean final pitch.
If you plan to go through Gaisloch, keep in mind that the melting snow on the Rax plateau goes through it as a nasty waterfall until June or July. I think that during the long dry sunny weather periods from September to November (just until the first snow) the weather and conditions are best.
There is no water on the plateau, so for staying in Dirnbacher hut you either bring water with you, or melt snow.