Climbed with Vladimir Ulyashin from camp by a little tarn on top of the ridge between Gem and Treasure Lakes. The slopes before Cox Col had extensive snow cover that was perfect for kicking steps. At Cox Col we met 2 climbers who also go to the Berkeley Ironworks. I carried Bob Burd's photo of the summit headwall and it proved very useful. With rock shoes I was able to climb up the headwall through Bob's "easier chimney". We rappelled down a different headwall on the west side of the summit. Great peak with lots of exposure on every side and some challenging climbs. Then after sundown we spent 2+ hours looking for our tent, finally found it after comparing profiles of surrounding mountains with digital photos taken in the morning from the camp site. What a day!!!
Dodged lightning all afternoon, including a quick retreat just before reaching the summit ridge, only to try again minutes later. In retrospect, climbing this sucker that day probably wasn't a good idea, but oh well. Didn't climb the summit block because the clouds were building again and the summit block was wet.
Car to Car in a day, with Kris S. Bring rockclimbing shoes and stick close to the summit ridge for some really fine 5.5 on golden rock! Ran into some old friends on the summit, very nice day.
Did winter ascent with Galen and Barbara Rowell. Great ski down!
My first unroped class 4 climb--thanks to some careful coaching by Bob. This is a fun peak with some great rock!
An easy climb from Cox Col. We were on our way back from climbing Mt. Gabb, and this one seemed too easy to pass up. The summit rocks are a bit tricky though - the fun part! It took half an hour from Cox Col, 8.5hr since we left the trailhead at Rock Creek - most of that time was in climbing Mt. Gabb. Trip Report
Took off from my bivy 2 lakes down from Dade Lake (right below Pyramid Peak) @ 7.30, leaving from Dade Lake @ 8.00. Took a few easy 5th class variations along the way. Passed Rinat's group w/o even knowing he was in it! Made summit by 10.45, leaving @ 11.31. Descended Ulrichs route to plateau below before realizing I'd dropped my camera at the top. Ascended 700', only to not find it! Descended again, having some fun glissading on snowfields en route. Beautiful route, good rock, & excellent day!
Climbed the route with my wife amd 2 another friends of mine. We had some very bad weather on the day befoe (Aug 2):hale, winds, T-storm and excellent conditions on the summit day. We moved too high and found ourselves on the hard ground on the top of North Arete, so had to backup a little bit and made some low grade 5th class section below the summit block. Returned back via the Ulrich route. Excellent peak and great scenery.
good route. another galen rowell first ascent. amazing man, tragic loss..
Jim Mathews and I scrambled up the NE Buttress in about 5 hours RT from Dade Lake. What a beautiful peak.
Robert Somoano and I climbed this beautiful North Arete from Dade Lake. We thought this was one of the best trips we have ever done in the High Sierra.
Gerry Cox and I got on the East Ridge at it's base and followed the crest to the summit. We took 10 hours and roped 22 pitches with one or two(?) rappels. I thought this was a long, classic Sierra rock climb. I would highly recommended it as a full day trip from/to Dade Lake.
Did this with Duncan Laing. I fine climb with an outstanding setting. A lot of snow in 1995 which froze hard as a rock at sunset, making the return to camp real interesting.
Day 4 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. The NE Ridge was a very fun route. It starts off as a boulder scramble but soon turns into an interesting weave along the ridge, mostly class 2-3. Near the summit ridge, where it joins the North Arete, there is some easy class 4 for extra excitement. The summit ridge itself is a hoot (mostly class 2 with serious exposure) all the way to the summit block. Vishal and Joe came up Ulrichs Route and joined me shortly after I had reached the summit. Trip Report.
I woke up this morning in the woods outside of Mammoth Lakes and started leafing through Secor's book. Bear Creek Spire looked like a worthy objective, so I drove to the trailhead and started up the trail at a relaxed pace (i.e., not running). About 6 miles and 2 hours later, I was at the base of the North Arete. I changed into my rock shoes and started up the FINE North Arete. The rock was solid and the setting was spectacular. 46 minutes later, I reached the summit, slid down some talus, and ran back to my car. Car-to-car time: just under 5 hours.
Bailed at 7 PM to the right a couple hundred feet short of summit. Back to camp at Gem Lakes well after dark. Great moderate climb. Backing through the triangle hole is unforgetable.