We wanted to do the North Arete again, but woke at 5:30am and thought it was too late of a start to do the climb as a party of 3. We decided to take the NE Ridge instead and ended up at the summit around noon. Since we had plenty of time to spare, we traversed the ridge to Pipsqueak Spire and Dade (4pm) and was back at the car at dusk. We took our time and were little slow, but not bad for being sick!
Spectacular views, and there was onyl one other party on the mountain. Got a late start on the day-climb, so we descended in the dark.
Climbed Northeast ridge. Led some sections. Fun climb.
Doug and I climbed this route in January 2003, but the exact date is approximate. We approached the mountain on skis, one day for the approach, one day for the climb, and one day for the descent. This was my first real climb. Spectacular memories!
Fear of the Dark by Iron Maiden was in my head all day...is that weird?
But someone was killed by rockfall in the Hourglass the day before. I had no helmet. Advised by trail builders to take the Cox col and go 'round the back of the crest. At the crest I decided to go for the Spire. Lost it on a hard snow slope coming down from the col and slid down 30 ft. to a rock outcrop. Was going to climb University Peak the next day but the fall sent me to the White Mtns. to hike an easy 12 thousander near the road.
Mostly tame, tedious sand until the summit ridge and that balance-beam part. Escaped down the back to avoid a storm, and got seriously drenched on the return.
I think I did the Ulrich route...
Climbed this route with Jeff Bance during our week in the Sierras. We went up and camped at Dade Lake the night before the climb, which I hoped would allow Jeff to acclimatize a bit more. Unfortunately, he felt ill all night and suffered through the entire climb...I ended up leading every pitch. The climbing was excellent, three great pitches of 5.7-5.8 and lots of exposed climbing on the crest. We climbed the route in about 5.5 hours, descended back to Dade Lake, and hiked out the same day.
Really fun climb. The icy part of the descent was a little hairball.
ctc. Was a bit disappointed. All the good climbing seemed to come in the last 400 feet or so (along the ridge line), which is after the NE Ridge and North Arete merge. Next time I will climb the North Arete route.
Skiied in and climbed with Galen and Barbara Rowell. Great ski down! RIP Galen and Barbara.
Great fun, part of on going California - Utah road trip. A wonderful peak with beautiful surroundings.
Another one of my many Sierra solos
NE RIDGE SCRAMBLE W/DON PALMER
climbed the north arete in one day car-to-car. Long day but excellent climb.
Windy and rainy the day before, but weather held up for a run up Ulrich's route.
found a few slings and a taped disposable camera just below the summit block, let me know if they're yours