Becco di Mezzodì

Page Type
Belluno, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.4 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

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Becco di Mezzodì
Created On: Jan 4, 2015
Last Edited On: Apr 7, 2016


Becco di Mezzodi, the lake and the hut
The Becco di Mezzodì (2602 m) is an unmistakable summit of the group of the Croda da Lago, the mountain who is located on the westside of Cortina d'Ampezzo. The name Becco di Mezzodì means the "Midday's Peak", because at noon the sun is just above it if you look at the "Becco" from town. This one was one of the first mountain climbed in the Dolomites (By Santo Siorpaes & Utterson Kelso - 07/05/1872).
The normal route provides a short climb in a solitary and very attractive environment.

Getting There

Map of the area
Hiking to the Becco. Mount Pelmo in the background.
From Cortina drive towards Passo Giau and park the car at Ponte di rù Curto. Alternatively take the taxi from Cortina to Rifugio Croda da Lago. (Taxi Service, tel. 0436 860888).

From Ponte di Rù Curto take path No. 437 then 434 to Rifugio Croda da Lago, then continue to Forcella Ambrizzola (2.00 hours circa). From here continue to Forcella Ambrizola (2277 m).
Here you have to turn left and follow the tracks of a not reported trail, that bypasses the Becco on its South-West side (an exposed section of rocks) and along gravels you'll be able to reach a col at the base of an evident chimney.

Option: It's also possible to reach Forcella Ambrizola starting from Passo Giau, along the path No. 436. Even though this way is longer, the surround is spectacular.

Route Description

The chimney, the crux of the climb
Giancarlo on the summit

1- Climb the chimney (20 m, grade II) and continue scrambling southwest to another well marked chimney. Spike, set up a belay here.
2- Climb initially to the right rib (grade III, 1 piton), after into the crack (grade IV, crux, 2 pitons). Belay here, 3 pitons (you will use them for rappelling on the descent).
3- Go to the right and then climb a short section of grade II+.
4- Going left along the ledge (crumbly - I / II) you will come to the ridge, and through it on the spacious summit.

Essential Gear

Standard gear, some slings.

External Links

View of Cortina from the top of Becco di Mezzodi
Hut: Rifugio Croda da Lago
Nearby hiking: The Croda da Lago ring

Becco di Mezzodì

12 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections


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