Fun day out. Classic line. A little wet between pitches when we were there.
December 27, 2007 Jason Wilcox and I climbed the Water Ice route "Beowulf" (WI4 670m) up the drainage, quickly climbed "Devil's Punchbowl" then onto the slopes southwest of Devil's Head. We climbed the standard West ridge route on Devil's Head to the summit.
We reached the summit of Devil's Head at 3:00pm, just a quick 7.5 hours from the truck. Air temperature at the summit read at -20 C and the wind was at least 60 kmh, it was quite cold. We only had a short summit stay. The way down was quick and we reached the top of the water ice before dark. We downclimbed and rapped the water ice in the dark and were back to the truck around 8:30pm. A nice 13 hour day.
Very wet first pitch. Access was awesome and the climb was great. What a classic!
A great climb with lots of terrain. We soloed everything except the first and last pitches. The top 10 meter section was awesome - I climbed it right up the middle and it was steep and sustained (but fortunately only 10 metres in length).
Climb fest 2007...every year Adam and I get on a streak, this was one of those weeks, like 6 routes in one week as I recall. First and probably not last time I got stuck good down there. Pilot error, check out the photos. Once you screw up, it can take a while to dig yourself out, go prepared. The north ghost is remote and peaceful, real hard core mountain setting. Sure is a lot different than climbing down here in southern Utah. Nice route, definitely try to tag on Devil's Punchbowl, real cool curtain further in, you will have to be moving though. Cheers.