Koen - Jul 8, 2007 4:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007
SW-ridge + descent Chemin des Dames
Did the longer version of SW-ridge: entry point was the obvious gully East of p. 3217 (route description 630a in SAC guide). The gully itself we climbed free, it has one or two more difficult moves. From there onto the ridge proper and good climbing all the way.
Untill we got to the 'normal' SW-ridge route, we had to place all protection ourselves. Climbing is fun and easy enough on good rock so we did a running belay all the way up to the big gendarm (some bolts).
Even though there was still a considerable amount of snow lower down and on the surrounding peaks, our route was almost completely snow free.
Decent via the SE-ridge and S-face, some downclimbing, some abseils.
Route Climbed: SW Ridge + Traverse with Blanc de Moming Date Climbed: july 2005
Reached the base of the couloir which leads to the crest of the ridge without any problems. Passed the gendarm on the right and climbed on to the final step. Traverse some 40m of slabs to the right and climb the chimney around the corner, which is actually one of the niciest but most difficult parts due to the exposed climbing. Made it to the summit in only 3.5 hours. We used a running belay all the time.
Continued with the traverse of the Blanc de Moming, which is also graded AD, but significantly harder. Only start with the traverse if there's enough time left!
Koen - Jul 8, 2007 4:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007
SW-ridge + descent Chemin des DamesDid the longer version of SW-ridge: entry point was the obvious gully East of p. 3217 (route description 630a in SAC guide). The gully itself we climbed free, it has one or two more difficult moves. From there onto the ridge proper and good climbing all the way.
Untill we got to the 'normal' SW-ridge route, we had to place all protection ourselves. Climbing is fun and easy enough on good rock so we did a running belay all the way up to the big gendarm (some bolts).
Even though there was still a considerable amount of snow lower down and on the surrounding peaks, our route was almost completely snow free.
Decent via the SE-ridge and S-face, some downclimbing, some abseils.
il.rocciatore - Jul 23, 2005 5:54 am
Route Climbed: SW Ridge + Traverse with Blanc de Moming Date Climbed: july 2005Reached the base of the couloir which leads to the crest of the ridge without any problems. Passed the gendarm on the right and climbed on to the final step. Traverse some 40m of slabs to the right and climb the chimney around the corner, which is actually one of the niciest but most difficult parts due to the exposed climbing. Made it to the summit in only 3.5 hours. We used a running belay all the time.
Continued with the traverse of the Blanc de Moming, which is also graded AD, but significantly harder. Only start with the traverse if there's enough time left!