Better Than Love

Approach

Follow the trail for Dream Lake from the TH at Bear Lake. Go past Dream Lake to Emerald Lake, then head West rock hopping large boulders until you gain a bench under the North face. Hike up talus to the base of the route at a grassy ledge to climber's left of the Popular Culp-Bossier and the Love Routes on the Second (middle) Buttress. The start of the route is just left of a large right facing corner, and has a couple of right facing dihedrals above it. The approach takes about 90 minutes.

Route Description

P-1 Climb to the base of a right facing dihedral. (5.6)

P-2 Ascend the dihedral avoiding the roof by a section of thin face climbing on the left face. This pitch requires a bit of gardening as you get closer to the top of the dihedral! (5.8)

P-3 Wander to climber's left to avoid the harder headwall. (5.5)

P-4 This pitch is shorter and covers an easier section of the route to a ledge system with a good belay stance. (5.4)

P-5 Climb the left side of a tall pillar to a small ledge at a right facing leaning corner/flake. (5.7)

P-6 Climb the corner/flake until it veers left. Cross right above the corner system until a suitable belay stance is found. This pitch crosses the Love Route. Much of the pro on this pitch is from good nut placements. (This is another short pitch)

P-7 "Typical Hallet's Death Pitch" This pitch is the mental crux pitch and the reason for the 'S' rating. This is a thin edgy climb up steep rock with next to no pro. The goal is a ramp below an obvious roof to the right of a left facing dihedral. RP's may shorten runout section. (5.7+S)

P-8 Climb the dihedral, cross a slab, and climb through the roof. Once past the roof chose your line moving left to the top of the climb. Work to minimize rope drag on this pitch. (5.8)

Essential Gear

Standard Rack -one full set of nuts and cams up to a #4 Camalot

Red Tape

Be aware of the logistics involved with the shuttle system that is currently in place to get to the Bear Lake trail head.

Miscellaneous Info

For a list of accidents on Hallett peak click HERE!

The Culp Bossier route near the Better than Love route is one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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