Lots of work but worth it.
Parked at N48 03.646 W121 29.890. Found a good log crossing at N48 03.589 W121 29.814. Went up the lower cliff band in the center (between the two large waterfalls - route photo in gallery) with no issues. Snow in the lower couloir was in good shape, but had to do quite a bit of class 3/4 scrambling about 2/3 of the way up the couloir due to lack of snow (May would probably be the best month on this route). We chose to climb directly up to the summit ridge at the head of the couloir (rather than turning left and going for the notch), which was also class 3/4. We had no brush to deal with on the summit ridge by using this route. No belays on the way up, but made several rappels on the way down. Highly recommend starting this route as early in the day as possible to maximize safety, as the east facing couloir gets sun on it early in the morning. Also recommend scouting the first part of the route through the lower cliff band a week or two ahead of time, which will save you a lot of time on the day of the climb. 3hrs 50 min up, 3hrs 40 min down.
Hot, sunny day, slushy snow. Once I was high up the upper gully, avalanches were very frequent all around me, had to dodge a couple of them! Large rocks and falling ice narrowly missed me a few times. Lots of hidden moats/bergshrunds everywhere on route. Had a scary 4th class downclimb on slippery rock (rope would have been nice for rappel). Very dangerous route in those conditions, I'm glad to be back in one piece! Came in via Ice Caves trail (had to wade the river due to bridge being washed out) came out via Dry Creek to the highway, then walked back to my car.
A warm, sunny spring day. Snow conditions were bad, with sluff avalanches coming down all around us, just like Beckey warned. Late spring would be better for this route.