Bishop’s Jaggers, 5.9, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Bishop’s Jaggers got some special love from the local guidebook (****) but I am not sure where that is coming from.  The crux slab pitch is as interesting as slab can get for the grade I guess, but the other four pitches involve large sections of below grade climbing.  It is not near as good a route as Gonzo’s Lament for example, of the same grade and guidebook recommendation.

The first pitch is a low angled corner approach pitch to a comfortable pod and gear belay.  The second pitch offers spicy climbing through five widely spaced bolts on intricate slab for the grade.  The third pitch offers one exposed move at the grade to pull the right side of the roof.  The fourth pitch offers more slab climbing.  The fifth pitch has a cruxy short wide crack near the top of the formation.  The best descent is to rap back down the route from a tree to the top of the fourth pitch and then straight down with double ropes on Dos Equis.

The approaches for the Bishop and the Dome are exactly the same.  The guide book does a poor job (2021) explaining the approaches for both of these features.  We were at the Dome on a Sunday and the two other parties climbing on it that day got lost getting up to it.  Start up the Sunshine Wall trail.  At a marked sign (2021) and/or first juncture, stay straight and cross a tiny running creek (2021).  Continue to another juncture with a soft bivy spot.  Turn left and follow this trail that turns into an old road.  Private property signs are posted, but “no trespassing” signs are not.  Continue on this road a short distance to a cairn on the right (2021).  This cairn marks the bottom of a grassy ridge that leads straight to the middle of the Dome formation and Bishop’s Jaggers.  However, the last several meters will require you to navigate large boulders. If you get lucky and find the right little tunnel, it starts the easiest way across this boulder field.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 100’-5.5/ Climb the wide right facing corner up to a stance and gear belay.  It will be run out, but relatively easy, unless you brought a large piece. 

2^nd Pitch- 130’-5.9/ Crux pitch of the climb.  Follow intricate slab for the grade through five bolts trending up and right and then cut up and left to belay on a small ledge below the right end of the long roof with a single bolt and #2.  Being a trad climber, I aimed for the half-moon feature after the 2nd bolt or so and should have angled up and right earlier following the bolt line (which you do leave after the 5th bolt).  Had to down climb and traverse right a bit. 

3^rd Pitch- 80’-5.9/ Climb up to the right side of the roof and make an exposed face move at the grade up to a left leaning crack.  Mantle that and walk left to a stance on a tree and one bolt anchor.

4^th Pitch- 150’-5.8/ Make a few moves at the grade off of the belay and trend right to a single bolt.  Clip it and trend back up and left to a crack in an overlap.  Place a medium piece and traverse up and right and back left on a broad ramp to a modern rap anchor. 

5^th Pitch- -160’-5.8/ Climb the immediate corner to the right.  Walk left to a wide crack below a tree.  Climb this short wide crack (arm bar) at the grade.  Climb up one more 5^th class slab and belay from a tree with a slung rap (2021).

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Double rap from the tree to the top of pitch 4.  Rap Dos Equis from there.  Double rap to the top of the west side of the large roof.  Double rap to the last set of rap rings on the massive slab below. Single rap down from there. 

Essential Gear

Single rack to #3.  Mix of draws and slings.  Double ropes get you down in 4 raps.