Bit By Bit

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.7+ Run-out
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
4
Grade:
I

Route Quality: 2 Votes

1556 Hits
74.01% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Deb
Bit By Bit
Created On: Jul 13, 2009
Last Edited On: Jul 13, 2009
Table of Contents

Approach

Approach to base of climbs on the western face as mentioned on main Little Baldy page. Once out of the woods and near rock base, take care to not traverse along rock wall too far. Drop a bit lower and follow faint trail over downed trees and thick scratchy brush. Evidence of traffic provided by broken branches and skid marks in soft dirt under brush.

The Climb

The start of Bit By Bit is just right of Wigged Out, obvious line under great roof. Bit By Bit is 4 pitches of mainly face with some small mossy cracks on occasion; favorite placements are the only cracks that have been landscaped by previous climbers. The 5th pitch is a Class 4 walk to the top.

P1 - great face climbing with a small bulge (probably the crux) between bolts 2 and 3. We found, as many have, the topo in the guidebook “Sequoia Kings Canyon”, to be incorrect for this pitch. There are 5 bolts, not counting the rotten bolted anchor, and gear placement opportunity between bolts 4 and 5.

P2 - easy face with more opportunities to place gear in small dihedrals, no bolts.

P3 - nearly 4th class, belay meets with Wigged Out on nice ledge with great anchoring choices.

P4 - this pitch provides some options. Go left and look for one bolt on run-out face to right-facing dihedral, go straight up slab, or take left-facing dihedral to the right across stately ledge, then run out to right-facing dihedral approx 50’ from last gear opportunity.

P5 - Class 4 ramp to the top doesn’t really count as a pitch but not a great place to fall unroped.

Walk off following hiking trail but cut back into brush and woods onto faintly used trail back to base of all climbs. This about a 5 minute jaunt downhill with spectacular view of some of Little Baldy's hardest routes.

Gear

Quick draws, a few slings, and definitely small nuts and aliens. Some med-sized cams for anchors would be a good idea as well.
60m rope was perfect, as every pitch was about 165'.


style="display:block"
data-ad-format="autorelaxed"
data-ad-client="ca-pub-6523272176520096"
data-ad-slot="7132222476">