Trip: Bridge River near Lillooet - Bitcoin Billionaire
Trip Date: 01/07/2018
Steve Janes, Danny O'Farrell and I climbed a new route off Bridge River on Jan 7/2017. After working in the area for a few years Danny noticed an attractive flow of ice high up the valley that had yet to be climbed. After driving by the previous day we knew that top pitch was in, and looking good.
Another view of the first pitch which felt like a WI4- pitch. We were pleasantly surprised and excited to see this ice so low on the route. Going in we thought we'd be mixed climbing our way to the upper tier.
Steve Janes dealing with the first difficulties on the memorable second pitch.
Once we got going things only got better- after the first pitch we were drawn into a tight chimney and climbed thru some difficulties in the M6 range. Here's Danny making his way, or squeezing his way up the memorable 2'nd pitch.
Once out of the chimney we climbed thru some easy grade 2 ice and one tricky M4 slab section before finding another M6 chimney. Here's Steve Janes dealing with the first tricky section of this pitch.
Once above the second Chimney we pitched out a short 25 meter grade 2 ice pitch before climbing the WI 4- upper tier of ice. This was a really enjoyable day out with great company, this route has an alpine feel to it and is worthy of repeat climbs!
Bitcoin Billionaire: WI4-, M6, 325 Meters
P1- 55 meters WI 4- First Pitch
P2- 55 meters WI3/M6 The Fun Chimney
P3- WI2/M4 65 Meters The snow slope that had the low 45 degree slab (tricky) need to simul climb a short distance in order to reach a tree belay.
P4- 30 Meters WI2
P5- 55 Meters WI3/M6 The roof pull then second Chimney
P6- 25 Meters WI2 Quick Pitch to the upper curtain
P7- 45 Meters WI 4- The wet upper pitch
Here's a view of the route from the Bridge River road.
Rack of screws- heavy up on 13's, good idea to have a couple 10's as well, Rack of cams to #3, some pins, we had knifeblades and used one on a pitch, half ropes
Approximately 43.5 km from the turnoff in Lillooet or 6.5 km before Terzaghi Dam. The route lies between the already established routes Salmon Stakes and A New Leash on Life” along the highway on the east side of the river.