This route is seldom climbed and is rated R for the protection.
Why the R rating? Is it "historical" predating large cams? #6 Friend is as large as it gets or you'd need big bros to saw it up?
Nice page & great photo!
The pro rating to my knowledge predates large cams. Originally a six inch bong had been placed as protection and it got moved as Stultz made his way up and if he had fallen it may not held. I think it was placed on top rope or rappel. the bong wasn't placed deep enough into the crack and its almost impossible to climb with-out getting way in there and using wedging techniques. Even still its a pg13. placing gear isnt real easy b/c its hard to make moves with out four points of contact. Hense the knee scrapes!!!! yes its painful.
rpc - Sep 28, 2006 2:54 pm - Voted 10/10
Looks painful.This route is seldom climbed and is rated R for the protection.
Why the R rating? Is it "historical" predating large cams? #6 Friend is as large as it gets or you'd need big bros to saw it up?
Nice page & great photo!
eric b - Sep 28, 2006 9:23 pm - Hasn't voted
(reply to above) ProtectionThe pro rating to my knowledge predates large cams. Originally a six inch bong had been placed as protection and it got moved as Stultz made his way up and if he had fallen it may not held. I think it was placed on top rope or rappel. the bong wasn't placed deep enough into the crack and its almost impossible to climb with-out getting way in there and using wedging techniques. Even still its a pg13. placing gear isnt real easy b/c its hard to make moves with out four points of contact. Hense the knee scrapes!!!! yes its painful.