Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches Climber's Log

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seano - Nov 6, 2012 10:10 am Date Climbed: Nov 2, 2012

Cliffhanger!  Sucess!

I led the odd pitches -- the "Cliffhanger" move above the two bolts on P1 rules. Climbed along with Lotta Balls and Trihedral. Trip report.

Shane Rathbun

Shane Rathbun - Dec 6, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2010

Sandstone  Sucess!

My first time climbing on sandstone. Great rock quality. The 3rd pitch crux is one move, but there are a number of ways to pull it off.


SKI - Nov 1, 2010 11:51 pm Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2010

Very good first pitch  Sucess!

Had to think on the third pitch crux move. First pitch was really good and sustained! I didnt think that the second pitch was run out at all. Plenty of cracks in the face for small nuts. Had to re-do the first pitch after a finger cam got placed a little too high for the follower.


fossana - Dec 21, 2009 3:21 pm Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2009

quiet dec day  Sucess!

Expecting a crowd but we had the wall to ourselves on this chilly Dec day. First pitch was great; the rest was so so. Got to listen to some drunk assholes trundle rocks further up the canyon.


PocketsOfBlue - Nov 16, 2009 6:54 pm Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2009

Sweet  Sucess!

Great RR intro route with Brian D. Unfortunately I got stuck w/ even pitches. Probably why I enjoyed Lotta Balls more!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 14, 2008 5:21 pm Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2008

Black Magic  Sucess!

Much more entertaining than Lotta Balls I thought. We did them back to back. Black Magic has a fantastic 1st and 3rd pitch. The 2nd pitch is long and sustained at 5.6 with hard to place pro at times. That leader needs a little experience if you are switching out. Can run that 3rd pitch out enough to solo the rest. I love the 1st and 3rd pitch. Better route in my opinon than Lotta Balls. Nice views of Mt. Wilson.

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