I led the odd pitches -- the "Cliffhanger" move above the two bolts on P1 rules. Climbed along with Lotta Balls and Trihedral. Trip report.
My first time climbing on sandstone. Great rock quality. The 3rd pitch crux is one move, but there are a number of ways to pull it off.
Had to think on the third pitch crux move. First pitch was really good and sustained! I didnt think that the second pitch was run out at all. Plenty of cracks in the face for small nuts. Had to re-do the first pitch after a finger cam got placed a little too high for the follower.
Expecting a crowd but we had the wall to ourselves on this chilly Dec day. First pitch was great; the rest was so so. Got to listen to some drunk assholes trundle rocks further up the canyon.
Great RR intro route with Brian D. Unfortunately I got stuck w/ even pitches. Probably why I enjoyed Lotta Balls more!
Much more entertaining than Lotta Balls I thought. We did them back to back. Black Magic has a fantastic 1st and 3rd pitch. The 2nd pitch is long and sustained at 5.6 with hard to place pro at times. That leader needs a little experience if you are switching out. Can run that 3rd pitch out enough to solo the rest. I love the 1st and 3rd pitch. Better route in my opinon than Lotta Balls. Nice views of Mt. Wilson.