Blackbeard Peak

Overview

Blackbeard Peak is an unofficially-named 7,241 ft mountain that branches off from Black Peak. Seldom-climbed, what its approach lacks in technical challenges, it makes up for in stellar views. It makes for an easygoing day climb with some brushiness low down, and then opens up into scenic vistas of the summits of Corteo, Black, Fisher, Repulse, Hardy, Porcupine, and countless other iconic North Cascades peaks.

Getting There

From Seattle, take I-5 north to the Cook Road exit for Sedro-Woolley, and drive east until you see the sign for Swamp Creek, before Rainy Pass. At the dirt pullout approx 200 ft past the Swamp Creek sign, pull over, park, and then look on the Granite Creek side of the highway for the large boulders, and some trail flagging down in the brush.

Route

South Slope: from the pullout, follow flagging into the brush, and proceed downhill toward Granite Creek. Look upstream for a log to cross on the north side of the unnamed creek, and then cross Granite Creek. Head west up the valley, and cross to the south side of the creek, and head slightly uphill to take an easier open set of slopes among the trees to follow an easier line to the next crossing at 4900 ft. At around 4800 ft, continue past the south-flowing stream coming off the slopes of Blackbeard/Moustache, and turn north towards the rib that rises from the valley floor.

At 4900 ft, look for a crossing and navigate through slide alder to open forest slopes leading up the forested rib coming off the south side of Moustache Mtn. Continue upslope through forest and brush to timberline, hike opening slopes and some small sections of class 2 rock to where the terrain begins to level off, and then aim for the center of the saddle between Blackbeard and Moustache. Toward the center of the valley, veer east toward the knob at approx 6600ft. From the knob, ascend directly uphill along the ridge through krumholtz, brush, and a few sections of class 2 and 3 scrambles to attain the summit and the summit register hidden in a rock pile. No serious technical difficulties. Descent can be done either by returning via approach route, or can be downclimbed from summit directly to saddle via class 3 and 4 gullies. Rock quality is unknown, proceed with caution if taking this descent (there are no good spots to set handlines or pro on the summit)

North Ridge (Beckey Guide): Begin at .4 mi east of MP 155. Hike the forest west to cross Granite Creek, then ascend steep forest slope to 5500 ft. Here make a rightward traverse to the east face couloir. Ascend the couloir to the narrow north ridge. Expect steep slopes and sections of low fifth-class climbing that may require roping up.

Red Tape

A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead ($5 per day, $30 annual). The Golden Eagle Pass also is valid.  Camping in the National Park requires a permit, which can be obtained in either Winthrop or Marblemount depending from which direction you are coming.

When to Climb

The approach is a great spring climb when snow covers most of the brush, but summer and fall are also great times to climb here.

Camping

There are a handful of spots where one could camp in the valley, or up around the saddle between Blackbeard and Moustache Mountain.

External Links