Approach over the South West Shoulder. The crack that you are after is 3 cracks right of Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic. You can pick it out as it is the only crack completely devoid of ledges, overhangs or other distracting features; from the beginning to the end, it shoots straight to the summit. Scramble as high as you can and set a belay.
This route was first done in 1980, by Steve Gardiner and Frank Sanders.On their ascent they took as many blades and Bugaboos as they could beg borrow or steal, (27 or so, in all) as it was obvious that the first 300 feet would accept little else. A subsequent party(ies) added 2 mid-pitch bolts. It is still an excellent route with long stretches of thin nailing and very secure belays from angle pitons. It is straight, it is pure, it is steep. A Very 3-Star Route.!!!
Pitch 1. (155 ft.,A3 or so) After a rope length of thin nailing, the crack opens to about 1" wide for 6 feet. Make it all metal and hang a very secure belay there.
Pitch 2.(160 ft., A3 or so) Continue skyward on thin pins to where the Tower rock begins to widen. A bolt has been added to this belay spot. Add some pins to it.
Pitch 3.(150 ft., A3, 5.7) Summit or Plummet!! The crack widens and constricts neccessitating some very creative placements and some free climbing. Hang in there!!! It all goes to the top!
In addition to the 30 blades and Bugaboos, you need Lost Arrows here and there, angles for the anchors and hand to fist to wide pieces for the last pitch. Get all that iron, that you've never used, out of the closet and take it with you. Enjoy!!
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