My preferred combo is to solo Beginner’s Two and down climb Begginer’s One. This one down climbs more securely.
“R” as in one bolt and no gear. The guide mentions standard rack but there is no gear. Climb Beginner’s One and traverse left onto a large ledge below the summit. Locate the obvious dike and the singular bolt. One of the worst climbs in Jtree for the effort vested. Down climb Beginner’s One or down climb the far northwest corner of the formation.
A secure solo. Near the top this major crack system becomes steep and makes a chimney. The most secure way to solo both is to climb this route and down climb Beginner’s One to get back down.
A fun roof stem, but the climbing at the grade is only for a meter or two. Medium to large horizontal gear belay. Down climb climbers left.
A stout crux for the grade after the horizontal with consequences. The flake up to the slab is fun climbing, this route deserves a star in the guide. The slab move after the horizontal is full on. Same medium gear belay ledge that serves most of the routes here, down climb climbers left.
A solid slab solo for the grade with the crux after the horizontal. 3 bolts if you want to clip through it. Medium gear anchor on the ledge. Down climb climbers left.
Although not recognized as such, this is one of the best 5.7 trad pitches in the park. Place gear at will up the right to left diagonal crack on the left side of Blob East Block. The crack straightens out a chimney giving you variety in movement and technique. Single rack. Medium gear top rope. Walk off climbers left.
Obvious left side of a corner on the Northeast Face. One of my favorite trad routes in Jtree. Reminds me of Thin Ice at the City of Rocks. Multi featured crack line with diverse climbing and hand jams when you need to place gear. Big movement (arête feeling) on excellent varnished rock including the hanging hand start off the deck. Could not be designed more fun than if you built it. Sustained 5.10- climbing to the top which is only 65’ vs the 100’ in Miramontes guide. Standard rack to C4#2. Medium to large gear belay. Walk off the back side.
Outstanding pairing with Papa Woolsey, just to the right. Climb the diagonal finger crack up right with good gear and then up straight and through a well-placed bolt. Same gear top rope and walk off as Papa.
Miramontes 3rd edition features a full page photo of this stellar Jtree sport route. Fun edges, a few side pulls and great movement make this a must do. On the soft side of the grade by Jtree standards. Six clips, the cruxes are well bolted. Top rope off of medium gear, walk off climbers left.
The crux is right after you get the lone bolt clipped at the beginning of the route. Micro edges help you gain a left foot edge. Then a big right high step whilst simultaneously palming a bump with your right hand: An intricate move, but soft for a 5.10d by Jtree standards. The crack above is much easier. Place a solid C4#.75 underneath the roof and jam up small hands and/or ring locks. Once you get your feet up, it was easy peasy. Walk off climbers left.
On the West Face.
My first [trad] lead in J-Tree.