LONG, LOVELY AID !! The Route is Obvious !! The Climbers Are Not !!!Click on This and Take a Closer Look
Take the West Face Approach until you are left of SPANK THE MONKEY and BLOODGUARD. The route takes the perfect dihedral, 2 cracks left of SABER. Scramble as high as you can to start.There is a very comfortable belay spot!!
WOW !! Is That An Aid Pitch !! Patrick Kingsbury Cleaning Away in the Dark. We Ran Out of Daylight but Not Out of Batteries and Headlamps !!This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo.
(140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.
Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !!
(165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket.
(75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot,Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot,#2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!!
Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964).
Patrick Kingsbury Jugging and Cleaning on the 2nd Pitch of BLOTTER IS MY SPOTTER. Not too many Ledges, But One Whole Lot Of FUN !!!Standard Aid Rack
+ 10-RURPS, 10-15 Beaks, 5-Leeper-Z, 30+ Knife Blades,6-#4&5 Friends/Camalots.
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