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863 Hits
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72.08% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.6 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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2 |
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Overview
This is a fun 2-pitch route with mostly easy climbing and a walkoff. The first pitch is trad, and the second is bolted. Although the route is shorter than a full 60 or 70 rope length, don't try this as one pitch; the rope drag would be horrible.
Getting There
Park at a pullout approximately 0.25 mi south of the Buckhorn Wash Pictograph Panel. It's on the north side of the road, and there's a nice campsite there with a fire ring and a picnic table.
There are several ways to approach from the north, and you'll have to map those options for yourself. From the south, the best way is to exit I-70 at Exit 131 and follow the frontage road east until it bends north and becomes a dirt road.
Except in wet conditions, this road is passable to most vehicles.
Route Description
P1-- Lieback a flake or climb a finger crack to gain a ledge. The MP page suggests that the finger crack is at the grade and that the flake is a little easier; we thought the finger crack looked quite a bit harder than 5.6, and my partner led via the flake. After gaining the ledge, head right and then stem or chimney your way onto the main wall. Clip 2 glue-ins on your way to chain anchors.
P2-- To avoid rope drag, scramble up to the big ledge above and belay from there. My partner was uneasy about the scramble, so I provided a belay. Follow 4 glue-ins, and the easiest path is often well to the right, to a 3-bolt anchor.
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After topping out, wander along the steepening slabs until you find one of at least two ways to get back down (my partner and I took different paths based on our comfort with exposure.
Essential Gear
Because P1 meanders, go out with at least a 50. Since only P1 takes gear, you can go with a single set of cams. My partner placed a #4, and there were spots for a #5 and #6 had we brought them.