Dow Williams - Jul 8, 2020 7:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2020
Bombs Over Tokyo
With Danny Urioste. Chris references in his latest guide book edition that the first pitch is one of the finest if not the best 5.10 trad lead in Tuolumne. I tend to agree. It is not overly long (I just came from 10 days in the Needles) at 110', and the finger splitter itself is only half of that, but it makes up for it in quality finger splitter movement and protection. I recommend a double to #.5, a #2, extra #.3 and #.4 if you want to sew it up. One set of wires or a few off set cams. 70m rope. Climb up the easy corner and pull the roof via a well protected 5.10- move. The crux is about 2/3rd's up the splitter where you get down to tips for a bit, but then feet start to improve. I have climbed harder 5.10c's in Yosemite for sure.
Dow Williams - Jul 8, 2020 7:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2020
Bombs Over TokyoWith Danny Urioste. Chris references in his latest guide book edition that the first pitch is one of the finest if not the best 5.10 trad lead in Tuolumne. I tend to agree. It is not overly long (I just came from 10 days in the Needles) at 110', and the finger splitter itself is only half of that, but it makes up for it in quality finger splitter movement and protection. I recommend a double to #.5, a #2, extra #.3 and #.4 if you want to sew it up. One set of wires or a few off set cams. 70m rope. Climb up the easy corner and pull the roof via a well protected 5.10- move. The crux is about 2/3rd's up the splitter where you get down to tips for a bit, but then feet start to improve. I have climbed harder 5.10c's in Yosemite for sure.