Great climb on an intimidating mountain! The Mary Green Glacier route is pretty slick, figuratively speaking. After crossing from the glacier to rock, we waited out white out conditions for four hours before proceeding up. Got in plenty of sleep, but it foiled our plans for Martin later in the day.
Once moving again, the dihedral section proved to be the crux, with a friction move necessary for those of us with stubby legs. It only took us two one-rope raps on the way down. If you have a 50m and a 60m rope, bring the 60m.
12 hours camp to camp, minus the four hour nap makes about eight hours, all else included.
Did as part of my big Glacier Peak Wilderness Trip where we climbed Emerald, Cardinal (including its south peak), Saska, Pinnacle, South Spectacle Butte, Fernow, Copper, Flora, Martin, Bonanza and Dark Peaks. 9 days, 78.5 miles, and 44,300 feet gain!
Packed over Bonanza...up the Mary Green Glacier, then traversed to Dark Peak
W/ Fletcher and Damon. Route in perfect shape, ~8 hours camp to camp with an hour on the summit. Downclimbed the entire route. Did Martin next, which was a shitty pile of choss.
With Ron and Scott. Perfect conditions except for a hot hike in. Little buggy in the later afternoons at camp. Camped at Holden Pass. Left 5:30 am Saturday, summited about 9:30 am. Glacier was courteous to us. We placed no snow pro or rock pro. Met up with another group of 3 near the moat and all climbed together. They were Seattle Mountaineers. Good group. No raps, downclimbed it and it went well. Crux was probably the waterfall slabs on the descent. We punched out the edge of the snow finger so had to mantle up on to it. Had to be careful with my footing on the way back as there was more running water in the afternoon. 8 hours camp to camp. Cooler (but dry still) weather came in summit night and made for a wonderful hike back to Holden. Fun ferry ride on the slow boat. Only negative was the traffic back. Not home until 1:30 am in Portland. Other than that one minor part, what an amazing climb. Oh, make sure you realize the ice cream store is closed in Holden on Sundays.
Due to lack of funds, we went in via Spider Gap (aka the hardy way) with supposedly 17,000 feet of elevation gain over 3 days. We got about 500-600 feet from the summit. Not only did I not feel comfortable having my brother do a slippery slab move over heavy exposure, fresh snow was falling, and there were down sweeping clouds around us making it very dangerous. I would have had to throw out all reason to finish the climb, not a shred of guilt was felt for turning around. This is coming from someone who climbed Alpamayo, Johannesburg, and many other difficult climbs.
~4h to summit from Holden campground, via the left-hand side of the Mary Green Glacier. Good peak, beautiful day. Trip report.
Great climb with good friends. I think this mountain may be more dangerous than some people realize, lots of loose stuff ready to come down. One of us almost got taken out by a snow slide very high on the face, moments after crossing a ravine, several truck loads shot down narrowly missing him. We were unroped, it would've taken him off the face all the way to the glacier I'm sure.
The snow conditions were abnormal, due to a lot of late Spring snowpack. The crevasses and waterfall sections were non-trivial. However, the bergschrund was very open but the standard route was not safe for travel due to a lot of snowpack and ice. We basically had to ascend the rappel route, which required a lot of extra time, focus, and determination. Thanks to Gimpilator and Dave for helping make this trip a success!!!
This was my 37th Washington County Highpoint summited.
The most technical climb of my life so far. The extra snow this year made the standard route impossible, forcing us onto harder mixed climbing. We did about 9 pitches on the way up and 12 rappels to get back down. My helmet saved my life on this trip.
Mountain and glacier in great shape. Great team with Greg, Grant, and Adam.
The snowthumb was my mental crux - steep snow above the open bergschrund. Rock quality was much better than expected. Fun climbing to the summit. A few raps and some easy downclimbing. Fun route.
Five hours round trip from Holden Pass. Elected not to rope up on the rock and down climb vice rappel due to loose rock. A classic Cascades route.
Fun rock sections, and classic glacier travel on the Mary Green glacier. Summitted with overcast skies but good visibility.
Summitted under clear skies via the "direct" route as described in Jeff Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains." We started at 4:30 a.m. from Holden Lake and topped out at 11 a.m. Five double rope rappels and a bit of downclimbing brought us back to the snow thumb. Two other parties were on the route. According to the summit register, we were the first group this year to make the top.
Duane, Joel and I traveled to Holden and hiked to Holden Lake on Wednesday the 14th. We started from from camp at 5:15A and summitted at 1:15P. It took I believe 8 25m rap pitches to return to the snow thumb, then we hiked back to the lake, arriving at about 7:15 for a 14-hour day. The conditions on the glacier were perfect, but with the warm weather I'm guessing there will be open crevasses on the route within a couple of weeks or so. With this climb I became the second person to complete the county highpoints of Washington.