Book of Prophesy, 5.8 or 5.10a

Book of Prophesy, 5.8 or 5.10a

  • The Book of Prophesy Variation- 3 Pitches- 5.8/
  • Buying into this variation allows you to mix it up with a great trad corner-crack that leads to the same location as the 2nd pitch of Sticky Revelations. Traverse left from whichever route you chose for pitch 1 on a substantial ledge into the corner. There is a belay/rappel station located here. The corner is easy to protect, but Todd references small to medium pro, when in reality, you can place your #5 Camelot perfectly in a place where you would want it. On the contributing route photo, I show where that is. Since I did not bring my #5, I placed my #4 in a spot where it probably would not hold making the top of the route somewhat run out. This is a great pitch for training trad leading because you must place two small nuts as well as at least one TCU along with your Camelot’s. The crux is early and then face features to the right start to appear making the pitch go at 5.8. You will pass one bolt further up as you enter the white band of rock which is not worth protecting. This section is a little run out. You have a station directly above for the continuation of Sticky Revelations or you can go left to a station on a large ledge for the Exodus Variation. Book of Prophesy, Prophesy Wall, June, 2007
    Dow Williams
    on Jun 12, 2007 12:08 pm
    Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
    Image ID: 300851

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