Both ferratas

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.64543°N / 12.31808°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling, Via Ferrata
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Hard and easy ferrata
Sign the Climber's Log

Getting There

Handdrawn map of the...An overview map.

The route starts by the hut . It is approachable from the hut Drei-Zinnen-Huette / Rifugio Locatelli, 2405m in about one hour below the south faces of Drei Zinnen to the pass Paternsattel/Forcella Lavaredo, 2454m (between Paternkofel and Drei Zinnen) and then below the west face of Paternkofel/Monte Paterno, 2744m to the hut.

Hard ferrata - Sentiero delle Scalette

On the ladders to Toblinger Knoten / Torre di Toblin, 2617m.Many airy ladders.

For hard ferrata you have to go from the hut Rifugio Locatelli around a mountain Sasso di Sesto/Sextner Stein, 2539m. You can cross its slopes around the west side or around the east side. Your goal is the start of ferrata in on NW side of the Toblinger Knoten / Torre di Toblin. Below the west face on the west ridge you prepare for climbing by an old military bunker.

From mentioned place you continue in the NE direction over the airy shelf to the start of ferrata. Ferrata is not soo long but you have to be strong in arms because you climb in full vertical. The via ferrata follows the historical route of the soldiers to the summit and is ca. 160 meters long and has 17 ladders. You can see on your way up some old rotten wood ladders and material-depots. By Sebastian Hamm. Yes it is really amazing how hard it was for soldiers to put there so many wood ladders.

Ferrata is very nice and it is hard because of airy climbing over the ladders. I will be more happy if there does not be so many ladders. You come to the summit from the north side.

You descend by an easy ferrata. The hard one is usually used for ascent.

Easy ferrata - Sentiero del Curato Militare Hosp

On the upper ridge of Toblinger Knoten / Torre di Toblin, 2619m.On the upper airy ridge.

I will desribe it from the summit to the hut Rifugio Locatelli because it is usually used for descent.

From the summit you have to cross an airy ridge in the south direction and then you descend with help of iron cable over the east face. This approach is much easier then the hard ferrata. But it is also very airy.

When you come below the face you have to cross the long east slopes all the way back to hut. View from this route is really amazing so you are quickly by the hut.

Essential Gear

Good hiking shoes, helmet, self-secured system.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

Lodewijk - Jun 28, 2017 8:21 am - Voted 10/10


The name of the harder Via Ferrata is besides "Sentiero delle Scalette" also referred to as: "Leiternsteig"

Viewing: 1-1 of 1



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