Bottleneck Direct, 5.10a, 7 Pitches Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 19, 2009 10:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2009

Bottleneck Direct  Sucess!

Pleasantly surprised. Way better than Chockstone Direct in my opinion. The first pitch has several belay options, but I ran it to the top which required us to simul climb a couple of meters. It was much more sustained that the Chockstone Direct version. Fairly intricate climbing, quite fun, picked up tons of brand new gear? and cleaned a lot of crap out of this route. More biners and slings to add to the huge collection from Yam. The 4th pitch had a traverse on some bad rock, even by Yams standards. Beta could have been written a lot better on that one, but I had no issues with finding the route. The last two pitches were quite fun chimneys for the grade. Not much real chimney action, but the corner out right on pitch 6 took some careful thought to access as the chimney work up to that was a bit run out. Super day with Adrienne, she did a fantastic job on her biggest trad experience yet.

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