Brass Balls, 5.10d

1st Pitch- 80’- 5.10d/ From the scant beta I could find on this route, quite a bit is made to do about this first pitch. In reality, I felt it was soft for the grade and the crux protected well, with fixed gear below and after the small roof pull as well as gear in the crack itself. Find the bolted crack to the right of Spectrum’s direct start. The bottom of this wall is undercut by ancient floods and thus overhanging. Run up the first section unprotected (5.7-8). From the second ledge, clip bolts below and after the bulge with a decent jam in between. Pull the bulge and follow the left facing corner to the top and into a large alcove/chimney formed by a leaning tower of sorts.
Brass Balls, 5.10d, 5 Pitches, Spectrum Wall, Red Rock NCA, NV, November, 2011


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