Breithorn traverse (E-W) Climber's Log

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il.rocciatore - Jun 26, 2022 10:14 am

Route Climbed: Traverse Date Climbed: august 2011  Sucess!

Traverse from the bivouac Rossi e Volante. Easy climbing and swift progress to the base of the Breithorn Central. Climbed the first step directly (graded IV), which isn't that hard if you keep your nerves together when searching for the next good hold or belay point. Second and third step are a piece of cake compared with the first one. Nice snow ridge on to final summit.

Alberto Rampini

Alberto Rampini - Jan 31, 2019 12:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 1983

Breithorn traverse  Sucess!

Solo ascent

Jukka Ahonen

Jukka Ahonen - Sep 9, 2012 7:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2012

Half traverse E-W  Sucess!

Airy rodeo moves on top of the ridge!


skotty - Aug 20, 2011 11:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011

Half traverse  Sucess!

Did the half traverse. Its a fun alpine rock route. Don't waste your time with the normal snow slope route up Breithorn; either do the full or half traverse.


LoneRanger - Aug 9, 2011 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

Half-Traverse  Sucess!

Did the half traverse, E-W, 6 hours round trip from Kl Matterhorn. Had snowed heavily the previous night, so had to wear crampons all the way (except the crux pitch IV). Great climb, solid rock, lovely holds, and airy, on a nice sunny day! Yeah, knife ridge is a good description!


Nikman - Aug 27, 2008 11:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2003

Standard traverse e-w  Sucess!

I traversed all five 4000 meter summits in the list of the UIAA from east to west.
1st day: took the train to Gornergrat, from there to Monte Rosa Hütte.
2nd day: from Monte Rosa Hütte to Bivacco Rossi e Volante.
3rd day: traversing Roccia Nera and all 4 Breithorn summits and return with cable car from Kleines Matterhorn to Zermatt.
Clouds on our summit day gave us almost no view unfortunately.
I remember big crevasses in the summer of melting glaciers back in 2003.
I am not sure about the exact date of the summit day, so don´t nail me on that, because this has been almost 4 years ago and we were travelling 3 weeks all over Europe that summer. The pictures of my old digicam only show the date when I downloaded them to my computer.


climbxclimb - Apr 11, 2007 2:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

Beautiful!  Sucess!

I did the traverse as a part of the traverse of the all Monte Rosa massif.
Great Climb!


joe_akeem - Sep 4, 2006 2:32 pm

Fantastic!  Sucess!

We did this in summer of 1998 in 8 hours from the Klein Matterhorn station and back. Started with Roccia Nera. Had a little intermezzo with a rope that got caught at the second rappel.


sokolxxx - Mar 12, 2006 11:30 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2005

Nice Route  Sucess!

Beautifull ridge allmoust all the time on the knife sharp.

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