Breithorn - Triftjigrat

Page Type
Route
Location:
Wallis, Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
AD (Snow (or Ice) and not difficult rocks)
Grade:
III

Route Quality: 7 Votes

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Breithorn - Triftjigrat
Created On: Aug 25, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 22, 2008

overview

the Triftjigrat (N ridge of West summit) is a classic (old style) route
Not to be underestimated even if not difficult : you reach 4000 m and coming down can be very dangerous with fog.

Starting hour should be very early (2-3 o'clock) - the climbs require 4-5 hours - about 1000 m drop
(wonderful in the moonlight)

Approach

best starting point is Gandegg hutte (3029m)
the Hut can be reached in less than 1 hour from Plateau Rosà cable car
warning !! some crevasses on the glacier (I entered one of them along the track and my backpack helped me not to fall deeply)

another starting point could be the Capanna del Teodulo (3317m) but you have to descend till almost the Gandegg in full night



Route Description

From Gandegg hutte a small path (a track) leeds you down to the glacier. (best thing to do is to give it a glance before night !)

Cross the crevassed glacier as best as possible to get the slopes that bring you to the lower part of the ridge (Triftjisattel)
(if you're lucky, at the beginning of the season maybe there's a track - I went in september : no tracks)

From here follow the ridge till the last slope (45° steep)



Using the rocks of a little spur get the last snow slopes to the summit
In june maybe you can do it all on snow (easier),

Essential Gear

usual for ice climbs, some pegs in august or september can be useful

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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