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12341 Hits
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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.94150°N / 7.74670°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.4 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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D (Ice and difficult rocks) |
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Grade:
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IV |
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overview
the Younggrat (N ridge to East summit) is a classic old style route, absolutely NOT to be underestimated !Starting hour should be very early (2-3 o'clock) - the climbs require 6-8 hours - about 1000 m drop
Some danger of Ice fall while crossing under the large wall between the Triftjisattel and the Klein Triftjisattel.
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Approach
best starting point is Gandegg hutte (3029m)the Hut can be reached in less than 1 hour from Plateau Rosà cable car
From Gandegg Hut a small path (a track) leeds you down to the glacier. (best thing to do is to give it a glance before night !)
Cross the crevassed glacier as best as possible to get the slopes that bring you to the Triftjisattel (see Triftjigrat)
Down along a easy snow channel till the Breithorngletscher.
Cross it at best to get the Klein Triftjisattel - starting point of the route.
It's (of course) useful to use the rope even for the approach.
Route Description
From the saddle along the thin ridge (beware of cornices) till the Gran Gendarme.Better climbing it directly (4°) than turning on the left (looks dangerous)
Along some not fine rockies to the higher, steeper part of the ridge,.
About 100 m under the summit you must cross (to the right) a very steep ice channel (more than 1 pitch !! if you have a 40m rope)
Turn to the right a small spur and then straight (not easy) to the summit ridge (west of the mountain summit)
Along some easy rocks to the summit.
Coming down is easy along the normal route (2-3 hours to Plateau Rosà cable car (less to Klein Matterhorn)
Essential Gear
High mountain gear2 pegs very useful !!!
Better having a 50-60 m rope