Overview
The smaller sister of the
Brenta Alta
Between
Cima Margherita and the Bocchetta di Brenta, it is the summit that appears, when arriving to the Rif. Brentei, like a pyramide on the top of the Val Brenta
Though it is not an important mountain it is often climbed for its nearness to Rif. Pedrotti and its south wall (black and yellow) that is a perfect way to spend amusing hours on the wonderful rock of the first step.
Routes
on this summit there are more than 20 routes, here the most important ones : all climbes are cut about in the middle by a ledge-terrace system.
NNE side - normal route - 250m - PDinf (1 pass II) - just to get a fine belvedere and for coming down after a climb
east side 250 m drop
- Treptow chimney - PD - very amusing
- Deye chimney - AD till the terrace, then little more difficult
- Pederiva chimney - AD till the terrace, then D - the finest on the summit
a lot of variants allow to climb (with more difficulty) on the whole walls
south east edge
- via Marisa (Maestri-Eccher) - D (first pitches of V) - somewhere rock is not fine
south wall
- via dei camini (Detassis & co.) - AD (passes of IV) - amusing in the upper part
south-west wall
- via Friederichsen - D - excellent rock quality
- via Donini - D - fine and various
west edge
- spigolo Fabbro - very amusing - AD till the shoulder then D
when on the shoulder, crossing to the right on the terrace, you can enter the channel between the 2 summits and get them easier
north wall
- the only route worth to be climbed is the Steve to the Yellow keep
some pics of "spigolo Fabbro" - west edge
shot in a gloomy day
Getting There
For all climbs the best starting point is Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m)
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m), by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, then path 318 : 2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei and, in 1 more hour, along the path to the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti
You can start as well from Rifugio Brentei (2182m)
Red Tape
natural park
When To Climb
Best month for climbing are from July to September
In August the Huts are normally very crowded with hikers and weather is not so fine ... in the afternoon often it comes to rain
Camping
Sant' Antonio di Mavignola
if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)
near the Rif.Pedrotti meadows are little but you can do the same thing :)