Brian Jenkins traversing near...

Brian Jenkins traversing near the top of Reid Glacier Headwall. (5/1/04)

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mpbro

mpbro - May 1, 2004 10:18 pm - Voted 10/10

Great sense of scale!

What's the slope angle here? Looks like 50°+. It always amazes me how the snow in the Pacific NW sticks to really steep slopes!

dkantola

dkantola - May 2, 2004 8:59 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great sense of scale!

50°+ sounds about right. There's plenty of 60°+ snow on Mt. Hood, and even 70° snow in some places. Any steeper and it's rime ice.

desainme

desainme - May 2, 2004 12:59 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Great sense of scale!

Great pix but someone baptised the last two sets with the big 0.

Nelson

Nelson - May 2, 2004 12:43 pm - Hasn't voted

Ditto - awesome set of photos!

Thanks for posting these great Mt. Hood photos. Looks like great fun. My kind of stuff.

woozler30

woozler30 - May 17, 2004 9:16 pm - Hasn't voted

Need some Leuthold advice.

when on the Reid, or Leuthold. do you lay pickets, screws, or just rope up? i have 5 summits, and am wanting to do the leuthold. ran into some guys on the summit a month ago and they made it seem like it was no problem.. ive also read when your in the Leuthold, its time to get it on..!!! im one of those climbers that likes to be overprepared mentally. any advice from anyone appreciated. Also travel on the Reid and when to stp going over there cuz of crevaces or bergs..i know about the rock and ice fall. thanks. Climb High.!!

dkantola

dkantola - May 17, 2004 10:59 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Need some Leuthold advice.

Other than crossing the Reid Glacier, the decision of when to rope up and place pro should be based on your personal comfort level. How comfortable are you on 45° snow slopes? That's as steep as it gets in Leuthold, mostly being 40° or less. I don't recommend the suicide pact approach of roping up without pro, but placing pro for 2000 vertical ft takes a lot of time (hours longer), and speed is safety when ice or rock is falling. We brought a few pickets and screws, roped up to cross the glacier, then climbed both routes unroped.



According to a recent condition report, it sounds like Leuthold is still in. It usually remains in condition into June, but we've had a warm and dry spring this year, so who knows?

Viewing: 1-6 of 6