Broad Gully

Page Type
Glen Coe, Scotland, Europe
Route Type:
Winter climb + walk
Time Required:
A long day
Scottish Grade 1

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Broad Gully
Created On: May 20, 2004
Last Edited On: May 20, 2004


How to get to Glencoe

AIR: Fly to Glasgow. Regular trains and coaches go to Fort William. From Fort William take a bus or a coach to Glencoe.

RAIL: Regular trains go to Fort William. For Fort William-Glencoe see AIR section above.

BUS/COACH: City Link coaches travel through the glen. For local bus timetables see Highland Council website.

From south- M74 to Glagow -> A82 to Glencoe

From north- A82 to Fort William -> A82 to Glencoe

Route Description

START: Pass of Glecoe (GR172568)
Walk easily up into Coire nan Lochan following a footpath for approx. 3 miles. (Note in heavy snow path is not always obvious)
Broad Gully is the obvious (broad!!) gully at the left of the cliffs and forms the lowest part of the skyline.
Start heading up to the base of the gully and if using a rope don@t leave it too late!
The climb is straight forward and doesn't usually have any cornice difficulties.
IMPORTANT: the route can be hazardous in avalanche conditions and is best avoided after heavy snowfall and/or heavy winds. (The ridge to the right is Dorsal Arete and provides a safer but more difficult alternative)
From the top walk easily upto the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan and head SW to the summit of Bidean nam Bian along a fairly narrow ridge. Altough daunting fom a distance it is quite managable and almost feels alpine under spring snow!
DESCENT: return to summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan then desend to coire by either shoulder(NW is easiest) fron coire follow path back to start.

Essential Gear

Ice axe
Rope(unless you're confident soloing grade 1 snow climbs)
Harness(only if you take a rope!)
Slings(only if you take a rope!)
Deadman/snowstake(only if you take a rope!)

Suitable clothing (Good waterproof essential)
Plenty of fluids
A camera

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Broad Gully

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