Our team lost three members on this expedition and my partner shattered his leg. An account of this trip may be found online at www.temptingthethroneroom.com
Untill the Rocky Summit. In Summer 2009 only 1 person summited.
Hung out at Camp 3 and was thwarted by heavy snow. TR is 'Something steep this way comes.
Turned around just below the col. Tired from breaking trail. Skied down
Climbed via big spur on the West Face. Camp One snow caves at 6000m, Camp Two higher up the spur at usual site at 6450m, Camp Three at 6900m. High point was 7200m - turned back by deep snow and severe avalanche danger.
Reached the foresummit but had to turn back due to the beginning symptoms of Cerebral Edema. Was the leader of the 2007 International Broad Peak Expedition.
Deep snow/bad avy conditions turned me back. Highest point reached 7800m just below the Col. For the final two bids I was the only climber on the mountain- not even one tent in base camp. So awesome..
I turned aroud at about 7450m, just below camp four. I was just not strong enough to deal with the deep snow conditions. Two hundred pics of this expedtion on: www.mountainpassion.net
Alpine style with Denis Urubko.
SW face, 6 days (5 bivouac nights), descent normal route.
Part of a Broad Peak/K2 double header. I reached 21,000' on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there.
The II. Attack to the Summit (June 9, 1957)
Whit Sunday and no clouds in the sky. We could not have it any better. We leave the camp at 4:00. Until now we have the warmth of the sleeping bags in us. Soon crawls the cold into our limbs. The temperature is minus 30°. We get cold, although we are well dressed and we climb continuously. Marcus and I traverse to the old route, while Hermann and Kurt climb on the right side of the slope. At 8:30 we are at 7550m at the largest crevasse. We are now 2 hours faster than the last time. Here we warm up our toes in the sun. Again we continue and underneath the col we meet the other two, who have frozen toes also. Marcus and I lead the 300m trail to the col and the whole summit ridge together. At 16:00 we are on the West peak and at 17:05 on the 10m higher East peak. Kurt comes there also at 17:45. We meet Hermann at the West peak on the way back. At 20:00 I am back at Camp III. Marcus comes at 20:30. Hermann and Kurt just after midnight.
Austrian First Ascent