First Time up Broads Fork and made it to the top of East Twin in about 2.75 hours. Tagged along with two other hikers on the top of East Twin to Sunrise and Dromedary. Great clear day.
Went up through Broads Fork in 100+ degree heat. Climbing in uncomfortable boots during such hot, dry conditions made it one of the most difficult hikes I've undertaken, but overall it was very rewarding. The views from the lower meadow, the saddle below East Twin Peak, and the summit itself were first class. The most tiring part of the climb was the seemingly never-ending talus field leading up to the Cottonwood Ridge. The steep scrambling above the saddle was quite exhilarating. Because of the blistering heat, we wisely decided to forego the traverse to West Twin Peak and turned around after obtaining the higher East Twin Peak. See "Beating the Heat" trip report for details.
Came back on 9/19/14 to do the Robinson Variation and complete the entire Triple Traverse. See "Good Things Come in Threes" trip report for details.
5-29-07 3rd time on summit, via Ferguson Canyon. On May 12th this year we touched both East and West summits as a part of the Triple Traverse, and my 1st time up was via the Broads Fork trail several years ago. If you like scrambling and sweeping views mixed in with sloughing quartzite along steep ridges, you'll love this climb along the ridge above and east of Ferguson Canyon. Plan for all day. Still enough snow to allow us to glissade down Broads Fork for at least 1,300'. Fun, fun, fun. #4 was 9/18/07 as the first peak of the entire Cottonwood Ridge run. Nice but windy. #5 (both east and west) as part of my 2nd Triple Traverse on 5-6-08. Much snow this year! 6th time 7-15-08 (both peaks) from Ferguson Canyon via Ferguson and Stairs Peaks and then the latter part of the so-called Robinson Variation. Still glissading opportunities in upper Broads Fork basin. #7 7-19-08 As part of 2nd Cottonwood Ridge run. #8 4-30-09 All snow above the bridge. Tough, tough going over and through the avalanche debris; 5" of new snow had not quite bonded with the older stuff. Took new route - very steep and NOT recommended to anyone! 5+00 up 2+42 down #9 on 5-16-09 (both summits) w/ Dave & Christine as part of Triple Traverse. #10 5-7-10 W/ Joe Bullough-part of TT; both peaks; mucho trailbreaking on cornice-packed dicey ridges. Therefore, much fun! :) #11 7-3-10 As part of Cottonwood Ridge run. #12 7-13-10 W/ Dave & Anne - Ferguson Canyon route over Ferguson & Stairs Peaks. #13. 7-3-12 w/ Brent. Some snow fields in the upper basin below the saddle. Turtle pace up in 4+35 & okay down in 3+14. I bagged the west peak, and why not? #14 8-11-12 As part of the ridge traverse. 1st peak in a long string of 'em. #15 6-29-13 Snow in upper basin on approach but warm, warm weather. Mit einer unbeschreiblichen Wanderungspartnerin. #16 7-1-14 Solo. Snow in upper basin. 3+42 up. IVD. #17 7-7-15. Snow in upper basin. W/ Brent W to basin. Helped Brent Hawkins reach the summit for his first time ever. IVD #18 6-14-16 Solo. Robison variation with some variation of my own! Still a lot of steep snow lingering both on the ascent and the standard descent into the BF basin. Five memorable glissades were icing on the cake. Terrible strong winds on the summit and during my crossing of the BF saddle. #19 7-15-16 W/ Yz & Brent (part way). Good, bad and ugly: good - the spring about 2 hours up, a bit up from the beaver pond and the fun scramble along the BF saddle and up the western portion of the ridge; the bad - not much shade once the sun orbits above the east ridge; the ugly - the miserable scree/boulder fields populating the upper basin to the BF saddle. You tackle this route at your own risk in summer months. #20 6-2-17 W/ Brent part way and with Lana to saddle. Solo to summit. Still lots of snow from the beaver pond on up. Four nice glissades on the way down.
One of my first hikes was up the beautiful and long Deaf Smith south drainage back in 2000. Recently went up via Broads Fork Robinson Variation Sept 1 2007. Very fun and definitely preferred to the talus slog of the standard route.
Hands down my favorite climb, maybe ever. Got both in. I've done it in the summer, but the traverse is so much cooler.
09/15/2005 Traditional Broads Fork Trail with Matt.
09/04/2006 Robinson Variation with Matt.
08/11/2007 Robinson Variation with my homies Dan, Nick and Mike. We started at midnight and arrived at the summit with plenty of time to watch the sunrise.
--June 28, 2007 Ferguson Canyon-->Mt. Superior, Cottonwood Ridge Traverse
--July 2002 Robinson Route/Triple Traverse
--July 2001 Standard Route
I climbed the Peaks via Stairs Gulch and made the mistake of climbing Stairs Gulch on the right side rather than sticking to the left side as recommended on this site. Lotsa fun and not too difficult over there......maybe a little scary. The peak was not near as tough as expected.
A very rewarding hike/scramble. It was very busy, considering it was Labor Day. I saw some bypassing difficult sections on the ridge by dropping a hundred feet or so into the Big Cottonwood side, and others taking the main ridge itself. I saw a fire flare up down Deaf Smith canyon while sitting on the West summit.
Climbed with Madjohnbo, the summit is quite rewarding considering the huge talus slope and very exposed scrambling to the summit.
Tough climb up through the talus.
Joe Bullough and I bagged both summits early in the morning on our way to the Cottonwood Ridge, which turned out to be a day with 9,000 ft of elevation gain!
After several mediocre attempts, I finally did the complete North Ridge route. It was a fun and easy half-day with mountainTrails.com
Time to summit 2:24:41 hrs. Fun hike! Kahtoola crampons and axe came in handy once again. Still a good sized snow field from the basin up to the ridge. Saw one goat.
Pellucidwombat and I started out up Broads Fork for about half an hour, then headed up west cross-country until we gained the NE ridge which we followed to the summit. Conditions were perfect. Practically the entire ridge was free from snow. Fun and interesting variation!
My first climb of Twin Peaks was made by Stairs Gulch. I enjoyed the rock scrambling and snow hiking very much. The rock in Stairs Gulch was very loose and it was impossible trying not to hit anyone below you. The climb up both Twin Peaks along the ridge was great. It ended up being a long day. We got hit by a snow storm while descending down Broads Fork but the fun glissading made up for this.
I did this peak with a friend of mine who got me into rock and ice climbing. We started at the Broads Fork trailhead and hiked to the meadow. From here we took a faint trail to the West that lead to the ridge some 2000' vertical above. This was a difficult assent due to the steepness thru a long bolder field and up thru dirt and loose rock. Once we attained the ridge the traveling became more interesting and pleasent. We traversed on a ridge heading South with outstanding views in every direction. This ridge was mainly slabby boulders with great exposure on either side and required some route finding skills to find the safest and easiest way to the base of the peak. Once at the base we started climbing up thru more bolders all the way to the summit of the East Twin. Upon reaching the summit we noticed thunder clouds overhead and didn't stay long. We descended the traditional route. A great hike with awsome views.
This is one my my favorites in the Wasatch. Great views and there are a lot of good late spring mountaineering routes up Broads Fork
7/3/2009- Grand plans of doing the Cottonwood Ridge with Matt Van Horn were thwarted by dark clouds moving in over the route. We went up Robinsons variation and hit both the East and West twin before aborting.
I've been thwarted from this summit three stinkin' times.
1st: Broads Fork - father wimped out on the exposed ridge (crack?)
2nd: Deaf Smith/Hounds Tooth -got way off route initially w/miserable bushwacking and gave up.
3rd: Robinson Variation - made it to the ridge when storm clouds swept in from the west. This time, we at least saw several mt. goats clamboring just below us on the cliffs. (Kick myself to this day for not having a camera.)
Tears on the first ascent!
Cheers on the second ascent with Kung Po for dinner!