Broken Top Climber's Log

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misterbob568 - Aug 30, 2018 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018

great climb with Santiam Alpine Club  Sucess!

Made this climb with SAC in June, group of 10 or so people. We called the ranger station two days beforehand and they told us the normal route was mostly covered in snow still. Not sure where they got that idea - I climbed in sneakers and didn't come close to stepping on snow all day. The benefit of the faulty forecast was that we only saw three other people on the mountain that day, and only one other person who summited. Small summit but comfortable spots for five or six people at a time.

There were two solid pitons placed at the crux right when you hit the 12' wall that we used to protect the lead climber. Slung a large rock right above and belayed the rest of the group up. Maybe two climbing moves you make. Could definitely go up unprotected if you're a cautious and confident climber, but I wouldn't want to do Broken Top without rappelling down that short section. A fall could have meant sliding a few thousand feet down the adjacent glacier. No thanks.

Summit is the best view in the northwest I've found yet. Great mountain for people who want a small taste of technical climbing, but I'm pretty sure even the most hardened mountaineer would appreciate this one.

Major northwest peak 2/18

rick6003

rick6003 - Aug 13, 2018 11:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2018

Broken Top climb  Sucess!

Actually I wasn't but my group of 8 had 6 successful climber's. They had a fine day with a 7 am start from green lakes. My girlfriend and a friend we're leading the group. After a few lost trails they finally got on the summit. I guess a mazama group were there to. A couple of people had minor issues with the exposure but forged on. They said it was a great day. Hope to do it the second time next year. It's the 5th annual trip for my north west wilderness meet up group. Also my second favorite mountain to climb after Mt theilson

BCJ

BCJ - Jul 9, 2018 11:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2018

Summit and circumnavigation in a day  Sucess!

Did the Broken Top circumnavigation and climb in a day. Nice weather, but windy and had the mountain to myself. There is still some snow on the east side, which made the easier scramble pretty much inaccessible (though I tried). I climbed the route just to the right of the standard crack and found the climbing easy, but the entry and exit are on loose ground so it makes the exposure feel a bit sketchier than it should be. Really fun climb/scramble.

gimpilator

gimpilator - Oct 20, 2017 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017

35 peaks in 16 days  Sucess!

Road trip! Josh and I climbed this peak and then Middle and North Sister the next day. Josh was running on zero sleep because he did South Sister during the night and I was running on no food because I stupidly left it all in the car. Trip report

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Aug 26, 2017 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2002

standard route  Sucess!

With Mark Denyer. This is another summitlog that was deleted by a hacker. Did standard route up but then at the crux move, if you go around a bit to the west there is an easier grove to scramble up. Fun summit.

Harvest

Harvest - Mar 30, 2017 3:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015

NW Ridge  Sucess!

NW Ridge Route: Class 4 (YDS 5.1)

My friend Jon invited me on this climb. What a fun scramble. This is where I saw Vic & Santiam Alpine Club.

adamschneider

adamschneider - Sep 18, 2016 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2016

There was a rope!  Sucess!

This would have been an amazingly fun hike/climb in nice weather; unfortunately, there was a 20-30 mph wind and the temperature was in the 40s, with the cloud deck getting lower by the hour. Still a cool view down into BT's crater, but I was in no mood to linger on top.

Anyway, the "crux" of the NW ridge — the vertical crack in the 10' basalt band — was fairly easy because someone had left a rope (webbing) on it. Who knows how long it'll be there, but it definitely helps, especially on the way down. Without the rope, I might have gone around to the scrambly rock on the left (east) side of the summit block; three other people ascended (and one descended) that way while I was up there.

96avs01

96avs01 - Sep 12, 2016 10:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2016

Great Views  Sucess!

Have to be the best views of the Three Sisters I've found. Went up/down the NW ridge. Carried a rope, but didn't use it. Really nice climber's trail, highly recommend this outing (when snow-free).

emilie

emilie - Aug 17, 2016 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2016

Cascades Mountaineers  Sucess!

I'd been up to the summit block solo before and decided not to climb it without a partner and a rope. Went back with my Cascades Mountaineers buddies, 7 total, on a beautiful day and got everyone up and down without incident. We did rope up and rappel the first section of steep climbing, but did not feel it was needed for the summit block.

Dundeel

Dundeel - Aug 1, 2016 10:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016

NW Ridge  Sucess!

Great climb with Duane starting at the Broken Top TH. Met Marcy and her dad Dean on the ridge and they gave us great guidance on the summit block.

mcdonaldjosh - Dec 13, 2015 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011

From Todd Lake  Sucess!

Green Lakes Trailhead was packed so I decided to start at the trail at Todd Lake, which eventually met up with the Green Lakes trail.

PTMcG - Nov 1, 2014 11:40 am Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2014

The Summer of Bend  Sucess!

After having spent decades of winters in Sunriver to enjoy the skiing at Mt Bachelor, my wife and I spent our first full summer there, our so-called "Summer of Bend." We were blown away by the lakes, streams and trails of the central Cascade and spent numerous days hiking and scrambling through the southern expanse of the 3 Sisters Wilderness Area; Moraine Lake, Ice Lake, Fall Creek, Soda Creek and the Green Lakes area. The South Sister is the 3rd highest summit in Oregon and the focus for 90+% of summiteers within the wilderness. On some days, while I glassed the south ridge of South Sister I could see a continuous ant thread of climbers massing up and down from that summit. It is a beautiful summit often swaddled in moustache clouds. It is quite different, to the east on Broken Top. There is an official summit for those that need one, but even more, there are three massifs that form the mountain. Each is serrated with spectacular pinnacles and challenging routes, often on highly friable rock, leading to their precipitous points. If you enjoy the isolation of remote routes and the challenge of getting up those, you will love approaches from within the crater. However, BE WARNED, these are not for the faint of heart as exposures, slides and the frequent clapping of rock-fall abound. Be prepared and willing to take multiple trips upon these spires to learn the details of their singular approaches AND take protection as some of these routes can be free climbed but down climbing is out of the question. Be safe, breathe freely and enjoy the memories you make in your own Summer of Bend.

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - Sep 22, 2014 1:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2014

So much fun  Sucess!

This thing is just so much fun. This is the first time I've done it with so little snow. I finally found the scramble route to the left. We still went to the right and went up the crack on the rock band. Keep in mind that this is a low snow year and the scramble route is not there if there is any snow around the left corner of the rock band.

Blue bird day!

Outdoorpartner

Outdoorpartner - Aug 16, 2013 1:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2013

Back side only

I don't deserve to sign the real climbers log because I only climbed the back side behind the lake. I totally botched the hike in, turning before Green Lakes on the trail sign that said "Broken Top" instead of continuing onward. By the time I realized the error it was too late. It was beautiful up there but the threat of thunderstorms was too great to hang out and enjoy the views. From Green Lakes trailhead it was still an 11 hour day.

triyoda

triyoda - Jul 7, 2013 11:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

Beautiful Day  Sucess!

Lakes were gorgeous, summit was great. Definitely a little bit of a pucker factor on the crux step, at least for a piker like me. Made a sling out of a 30 ft length of webbing and slung it through the rappel sling for the down climb. Yes, I am a wimp.

Troy B

Troy B - Jul 7, 2013 12:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

NW Ridge from Green Lakes  Sucess!

Climbed directly up using the crack on the summit block. Had the peak to myself in the early morning, excellent views!

Sirburtmund

Sirburtmund - Jun 2, 2013 1:55 pm

Awesome climb up 11 o'clock couloir  Sucess!

Awesome climb, maybe my favorite ever. It really pushed me to a new level. Now I just want to climb hard stuff!

cyffredinol

cyffredinol - May 20, 2013 1:30 am

Great climb!  Sucess!

Definitely tested my fear of heights! Thanks to Magnus for leading and Andee for protecting the route.

wildernesspreston

wildernesspreston - Apr 4, 2013 9:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011

NW Ridge Route  Sucess!

My first time up Broken Top. Fantastic climb, the exposure and summit block were not nearly as bad as I expected. Awesome scree descent from the summit. I love this mountain.

wildernesspreston

wildernesspreston - Apr 4, 2013 9:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2012

NW Ridge Route  Sucess!

Second time up Broken Top via green lakes and NW Ridge. Great climb, my favorite in Oregon! The exposure at the top is not all that bad, just be careful of that infamous, lose, cascadian rock.

Viewing: 1-20 of 86
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