Decon - Mar 13, 2024 9:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2017
love this summit
Brought my Brother up here to enjoy this one. had an amazing trip.
Snowslogger - Dec 5, 2023 5:35 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 1992
More Oregon Volcano Scrambling
Climbed this solo via the standard route. Did some self belaying at the short crux on the way up but it was more trouble than it was worth. Just downclimbed it on the way down.
Beautiful Mountain, beautiful trail, with beautiful people
Scott, Michael and I successfully summited this beautiful mountain. The Green Lake Trail is so nice. After a strenuous climb on the ridge the descent through the forest on this trail was welcome.
Moogie737 - Jun 22, 2022 9:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2022
Green Lakes “trail”, NW ridge
#1 06-22-22 W/ Max Tepfer (TMG). Bluebird day, all snow from a quarter mile from the TH until 100’ below the NW ridge. The crux move(s) at 9,000’ should not be taken lightly. For me a belay was definitely a necessity. From there to the lumpy summit was fun. The views today from the summit were absolutely stunning. 5+37 to the top. My app showed 12.3 miles r/t. #2 07-20-22 W/ Lana & Scott Becker of TMG. Bluebird day. The Green Lakes trail was virtually snow free.
Paul McClellan - Oct 2, 2020 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2020
Finally, skies mostly clear of smoke
My fourth ascent, the last was in 2003. My companion last climbed it in 1971. The climb is always an adventure.
blueshade - Aug 15, 2020 10:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2020
Fun little scramble
Nice headwall and great views of the Sisters.
Note that there is an easier bypass up AND down left (going up) of the crux. However, a confident scrambler should be able to go up and down the crux with no rope.
misterbob568 - Aug 30, 2018 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018
great climb with Santiam Alpine Club
Made this climb with SAC in June, group of 10 or so people. We called the ranger station two days beforehand and they told us the normal route was mostly covered in snow still. Not sure where they got that idea - I climbed in sneakers and didn't come close to stepping on snow all day. The benefit of the faulty forecast was that we only saw three other people on the mountain that day, and only one other person who summited. Small summit but comfortable spots for five or six people at a time.
There were two solid pitons placed at the crux right when you hit the 12' wall that we used to protect the lead climber. Slung a large rock right above and belayed the rest of the group up. Maybe two climbing moves you make. Could definitely go up unprotected if you're a cautious and confident climber, but I wouldn't want to do Broken Top without rappelling down that short section. A fall could have meant sliding a few thousand feet down the adjacent glacier. No thanks.
Summit is the best view in the northwest I've found yet. Great mountain for people who want a small taste of technical climbing, but I'm pretty sure even the most hardened mountaineer would appreciate this one.
Major northwest peak 2/18
rick6003 - Aug 13, 2018 11:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2018
Broken Top climb
Actually I wasn't but my group of 8 had 6 successful climber's. They had a fine day with a 7 am start from green lakes. My girlfriend and a friend we're leading the group. After a few lost trails they finally got on the summit. I guess a mazama group were there to. A couple of people had minor issues with the exposure but forged on. They said it was a great day. Hope to do it the second time next year. It's the 5th annual trip for my north west wilderness meet up group. Also my second favorite mountain to climb after Mt theilson
BCJ - Jul 9, 2018 11:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2018
Summit and circumnavigation in a day
Did the Broken Top circumnavigation and climb in a day. Nice weather, but windy and had the mountain to myself. There is still some snow on the east side, which made the easier scramble pretty much inaccessible (though I tried). I climbed the route just to the right of the standard crack and found the climbing easy, but the entry and exit are on loose ground so it makes the exposure feel a bit sketchier than it should be. Really fun climb/scramble.
gimpilator - Oct 20, 2017 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017
35 peaks in 16 days
Road trip! Josh and I climbed this peak and then Middle and North Sister the next day. Josh was running on zero sleep because he did South Sister during the night and I was running on no food because I stupidly left it all in the car. Trip report
Brian Jenkins - Aug 26, 2017 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2002
standard route
With Mark Denyer. This is another summitlog that was deleted by a hacker. Did standard route up but then at the crux move, if you go around a bit to the west there is an easier grove to scramble up. Fun summit.
Harvest - Mar 30, 2017 3:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015
NW Ridge
NW Ridge Route: Class 4 (YDS 5.1)
My friend Jon invited me on this climb. What a fun scramble. This is where I saw Vic & Santiam Alpine Club.
This would have been an amazingly fun hike/climb in nice weather; unfortunately, there was a 20-30 mph wind and the temperature was in the 40s, with the cloud deck getting lower by the hour. Still a cool view down into BT's crater, but I was in no mood to linger on top.
Anyway, the "crux" of the NW ridge — the vertical crack in the 10' basalt band — was fairly easy because someone had left a rope (webbing) on it. Who knows how long it'll be there, but it definitely helps, especially on the way down. Without the rope, I might have gone around to the scrambly rock on the left (east) side of the summit block; three other people ascended (and one descended) that way while I was up there.
Have to be the best views of the Three Sisters I've found. Went up/down the NW ridge. Carried a rope, but didn't use it. Really nice climber's trail, highly recommend this outing (when snow-free).
emilie - Aug 17, 2016 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2016
Cascades Mountaineers
I'd been up to the summit block solo before and decided not to climb it without a partner and a rope. Went back with my Cascades Mountaineers buddies, 7 total, on a beautiful day and got everyone up and down without incident. We did rope up and rappel the first section of steep climbing, but did not feel it was needed for the summit block.
Dundeel - Aug 1, 2016 10:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
NW Ridge
Great climb with Duane starting at the Broken Top TH. Met Marcy and her dad Dean on the ridge and they gave us great guidance on the summit block.
mcdonaldjosh - Dec 13, 2015 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011
From Todd Lake
Green Lakes Trailhead was packed so I decided to start at the trail at Todd Lake, which eventually met up with the Green Lakes trail.
PTMcG - Nov 1, 2014 11:40 am Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2014
The Summer of Bend
After having spent decades of winters in Sunriver to enjoy the skiing at Mt Bachelor, my wife and I spent our first full summer there, our so-called "Summer of Bend." We were blown away by the lakes, streams and trails of the central Cascade and spent numerous days hiking and scrambling through the southern expanse of the 3 Sisters Wilderness Area; Moraine Lake, Ice Lake, Fall Creek, Soda Creek and the Green Lakes area. The South Sister is the 3rd highest summit in Oregon and the focus for 90+% of summiteers within the wilderness. On some days, while I glassed the south ridge of South Sister I could see a continuous ant thread of climbers massing up and down from that summit. It is a beautiful summit often swaddled in moustache clouds. It is quite different, to the east on Broken Top. There is an official summit for those that need one, but even more, there are three massifs that form the mountain. Each is serrated with spectacular pinnacles and challenging routes, often on highly friable rock, leading to their precipitous points. If you enjoy the isolation of remote routes and the challenge of getting up those, you will love approaches from within the crater. However, BE WARNED, these are not for the faint of heart as exposures, slides and the frequent clapping of rock-fall abound. Be prepared and willing to take multiple trips upon these spires to learn the details of their singular approaches AND take protection as some of these routes can be free climbed but down climbing is out of the question. Be safe, breathe freely and enjoy the memories you make in your own Summer of Bend.
Nick Turtura - Sep 22, 2014 1:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2014
So much fun
This thing is just so much fun. This is the first time I've done it with so little snow. I finally found the scramble route to the left. We still went to the right and went up the crack on the rock band. Keep in mind that this is a low snow year and the scramble route is not there if there is any snow around the left corner of the rock band.
Blue bird day!
Outdoorpartner - Aug 16, 2013 1:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2013
Back side only
I don't deserve to sign the real climbers log because I only climbed the back side behind the lake. I totally botched the hike in, turning before Green Lakes on the trail sign that said "Broken Top" instead of continuing onward. By the time I realized the error it was too late. It was beautiful up there but the threat of thunderstorms was too great to hang out and enjoy the views. From Green Lakes trailhead it was still an 11 hour day.
Decon - Mar 13, 2024 9:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2017
love this summitBrought my Brother up here to enjoy this one. had an amazing trip.
Snowslogger - Dec 5, 2023 5:35 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 1992
More Oregon Volcano ScramblingClimbed this solo via the standard route. Did some self belaying at the short crux on the way up but it was more trouble than it was worth. Just downclimbed it on the way down.
yadahzoemtn - Jul 24, 2022 1:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2022
Beautiful Mountain, beautiful trail, with beautiful peopleScott, Michael and I successfully summited this beautiful mountain. The Green Lake Trail is so nice. After a strenuous climb on the ridge the descent through the forest on this trail was welcome.
Moogie737 - Jun 22, 2022 9:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2022
Green Lakes “trail”, NW ridge#1 06-22-22 W/ Max Tepfer (TMG). Bluebird day, all snow from a quarter mile from the TH until 100’ below the NW ridge. The crux move(s) at 9,000’ should not be taken lightly. For me a belay was definitely a necessity. From there to the lumpy summit was fun. The views today from the summit were absolutely stunning. 5+37 to the top. My app showed 12.3 miles r/t. #2 07-20-22 W/ Lana & Scott Becker of TMG. Bluebird day. The Green Lakes trail was virtually snow free.
Paul McClellan - Oct 2, 2020 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2020
Finally, skies mostly clear of smokeMy fourth ascent, the last was in 2003. My companion last climbed it in 1971. The climb is always an adventure.
blueshade - Aug 15, 2020 10:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2020
Fun little scrambleNice headwall and great views of the Sisters.
Note that there is an easier bypass up AND down left (going up) of the crux. However, a confident scrambler should be able to go up and down the crux with no rope.
misterbob568 - Aug 30, 2018 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018
great climb with Santiam Alpine ClubMade this climb with SAC in June, group of 10 or so people. We called the ranger station two days beforehand and they told us the normal route was mostly covered in snow still. Not sure where they got that idea - I climbed in sneakers and didn't come close to stepping on snow all day. The benefit of the faulty forecast was that we only saw three other people on the mountain that day, and only one other person who summited. Small summit but comfortable spots for five or six people at a time.
There were two solid pitons placed at the crux right when you hit the 12' wall that we used to protect the lead climber. Slung a large rock right above and belayed the rest of the group up. Maybe two climbing moves you make. Could definitely go up unprotected if you're a cautious and confident climber, but I wouldn't want to do Broken Top without rappelling down that short section. A fall could have meant sliding a few thousand feet down the adjacent glacier. No thanks.
Summit is the best view in the northwest I've found yet. Great mountain for people who want a small taste of technical climbing, but I'm pretty sure even the most hardened mountaineer would appreciate this one.
Major northwest peak 2/18
rick6003 - Aug 13, 2018 11:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2018
Broken Top climbActually I wasn't but my group of 8 had 6 successful climber's. They had a fine day with a 7 am start from green lakes. My girlfriend and a friend we're leading the group. After a few lost trails they finally got on the summit. I guess a mazama group were there to. A couple of people had minor issues with the exposure but forged on. They said it was a great day. Hope to do it the second time next year. It's the 5th annual trip for my north west wilderness meet up group. Also my second favorite mountain to climb after Mt theilson
BCJ - Jul 9, 2018 11:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2018
Summit and circumnavigation in a dayDid the Broken Top circumnavigation and climb in a day. Nice weather, but windy and had the mountain to myself. There is still some snow on the east side, which made the easier scramble pretty much inaccessible (though I tried). I climbed the route just to the right of the standard crack and found the climbing easy, but the entry and exit are on loose ground so it makes the exposure feel a bit sketchier than it should be. Really fun climb/scramble.
gimpilator - Oct 20, 2017 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017
35 peaks in 16 daysRoad trip! Josh and I climbed this peak and then Middle and North Sister the next day. Josh was running on zero sleep because he did South Sister during the night and I was running on no food because I stupidly left it all in the car. Trip report
Brian Jenkins - Aug 26, 2017 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2002
standard routeWith Mark Denyer. This is another summitlog that was deleted by a hacker. Did standard route up but then at the crux move, if you go around a bit to the west there is an easier grove to scramble up. Fun summit.
Harvest - Mar 30, 2017 3:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015
NW RidgeNW Ridge Route: Class 4 (YDS 5.1)
My friend Jon invited me on this climb. What a fun scramble. This is where I saw Vic & Santiam Alpine Club.
adamschneider - Sep 18, 2016 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2016
There was a rope!This would have been an amazingly fun hike/climb in nice weather; unfortunately, there was a 20-30 mph wind and the temperature was in the 40s, with the cloud deck getting lower by the hour. Still a cool view down into BT's crater, but I was in no mood to linger on top.
Anyway, the "crux" of the NW ridge — the vertical crack in the 10' basalt band — was fairly easy because someone had left a rope (webbing) on it. Who knows how long it'll be there, but it definitely helps, especially on the way down. Without the rope, I might have gone around to the scrambly rock on the left (east) side of the summit block; three other people ascended (and one descended) that way while I was up there.
96avs01 - Sep 12, 2016 10:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2016
Great ViewsHave to be the best views of the Three Sisters I've found. Went up/down the NW ridge. Carried a rope, but didn't use it. Really nice climber's trail, highly recommend this outing (when snow-free).
emilie - Aug 17, 2016 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2016
Cascades MountaineersI'd been up to the summit block solo before and decided not to climb it without a partner and a rope. Went back with my Cascades Mountaineers buddies, 7 total, on a beautiful day and got everyone up and down without incident. We did rope up and rappel the first section of steep climbing, but did not feel it was needed for the summit block.
Dundeel - Aug 1, 2016 10:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
NW RidgeGreat climb with Duane starting at the Broken Top TH. Met Marcy and her dad Dean on the ridge and they gave us great guidance on the summit block.
mcdonaldjosh - Dec 13, 2015 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011
From Todd LakeGreen Lakes Trailhead was packed so I decided to start at the trail at Todd Lake, which eventually met up with the Green Lakes trail.
PTMcG - Nov 1, 2014 11:40 am Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2014
The Summer of BendAfter having spent decades of winters in Sunriver to enjoy the skiing at Mt Bachelor, my wife and I spent our first full summer there, our so-called "Summer of Bend." We were blown away by the lakes, streams and trails of the central Cascade and spent numerous days hiking and scrambling through the southern expanse of the 3 Sisters Wilderness Area; Moraine Lake, Ice Lake, Fall Creek, Soda Creek and the Green Lakes area. The South Sister is the 3rd highest summit in Oregon and the focus for 90+% of summiteers within the wilderness. On some days, while I glassed the south ridge of South Sister I could see a continuous ant thread of climbers massing up and down from that summit. It is a beautiful summit often swaddled in moustache clouds. It is quite different, to the east on Broken Top. There is an official summit for those that need one, but even more, there are three massifs that form the mountain. Each is serrated with spectacular pinnacles and challenging routes, often on highly friable rock, leading to their precipitous points. If you enjoy the isolation of remote routes and the challenge of getting up those, you will love approaches from within the crater. However, BE WARNED, these are not for the faint of heart as exposures, slides and the frequent clapping of rock-fall abound. Be prepared and willing to take multiple trips upon these spires to learn the details of their singular approaches AND take protection as some of these routes can be free climbed but down climbing is out of the question. Be safe, breathe freely and enjoy the memories you make in your own Summer of Bend.
Nick Turtura - Sep 22, 2014 1:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2014
So much funThis thing is just so much fun. This is the first time I've done it with so little snow. I finally found the scramble route to the left. We still went to the right and went up the crack on the rock band. Keep in mind that this is a low snow year and the scramble route is not there if there is any snow around the left corner of the rock band.
Blue bird day!
Outdoorpartner - Aug 16, 2013 1:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2013
Back side onlyI don't deserve to sign the real climbers log because I only climbed the back side behind the lake. I totally botched the hike in, turning before Green Lakes on the trail sign that said "Broken Top" instead of continuing onward. By the time I realized the error it was too late. It was beautiful up there but the threat of thunderstorms was too great to hang out and enjoy the views. From Green Lakes trailhead it was still an 11 hour day.