Broken Top Climber's Log

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Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Aug 18, 2008 9:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

NW Solo...  Sucess!

S Sister yesterday and Broken Top today. A good way to get some elevation and see some incredible scenic views. From BT trailhead to the summit the trail is snow free so leave the ice axe & crampons at home. There is still lots of running water throughout the moraine fields all the way to just below where the trail meets the ridge.

Steve Rydin

Steve Rydin - Jul 6, 2008 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006

Broken Top  Sucess!

Great climb on an often overlooked mountain! The Three Sisters get a lot of attention, but Broken Top has a lot to offer as well. I would highly recommend you add this one to your list!


KMM - Oct 7, 2007 1:46 am

spink and kip  Sucess!

guided my track coach up this one. great climb/hike.


neswstar - Sep 5, 2007 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

great day  Sucess!

Wonderful sunshiny day. We were suppose o do Shucksan but cancelled due to weather. Drove here instead. Just 2 of us. beautiful day - no one on the route at all. Went up the 2nd right hand crack - much easier than the one on the left (did 2 years ago). But took the whole 60m rope to get anchor built at saddle. Thousands of flys on top - creepy. Came down on the back side of the rock and traversed back around. Then skied the scree slope - very glad to have remembered gaiters and poles this trip.


wrassleman07 - Aug 25, 2007 10:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

took wrong route...  Sucess!

decided to try this mountain, after seeing it from the summit of S. Sister last year. must have read the directions wrong, and took a bit of a cross country trip. what we thought was the NW ridge was actually not, and was actually climbing the ridge across the valley on the right of NW ridge. Don't know if it was harder/easier?? it was difficult as we were back packing it, and had our packs to the summit (bad idea). there were some rough spots with some scary slips, but all made it out alirght. slept in tents at the glacier adjacent that ridge. very nice. had quite the adventure

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Aug 9, 2007 8:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007

Back via Cayuse Crater...  Sucess!

Third time at the summit. This was a solo overnighter. I came in via the Broken Top trailhead. I turned right, cross country, at the last creek before getting to Green Lakes, followed the creek to its beginning where it was bubbling up from the ground. That's where I camped. I summited the next morning. I decide to cross country back to the car by staying high and crossing over the SW Ridge and over Cayuse Crater, a large pile of black & red cinder.

Infected Mushroom

Infected Mushroom - Jul 29, 2007 7:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007

NW ridge  Sucess!

Same day as Mr clam but hours earlier. Less Exposure to the ridiculous heat. Nice approach trail via green lakes but way too crowded even for a week day.

Mr. Clam

Mr. Clam - Jul 28, 2007 9:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007

Ski descent  Sucess!

Climbed up the left side of the summit block and descended the right. Definitely no 5 class. The scree ski down the west face was amazing.


Diggler - Jul 9, 2007 1:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2007

Independence Day NW ridge afternoon scramble  Sucess!

Got a late start (13.31) after getting into Bend late morning (left campsite N of Shasta early morn). Scramble up ridge was fun, & views great. Bouldering problem short but stimulating (always that way when you don't trust the holds 100%!). Summited 16.56. Views from top were phenomenal (esp. of S Sister), the weather perfect. Soaked it in for awhile, then descended same way (left summit 17.17), killing at least 100 mosquitoes en route (hungry bastards & forgot the DEET- d'oh!). Back at car ca. 20.30- still managed to make it to Bend in time for food at Baldy's BBQ (barely) & to check out the fireworks (including the setting afire of Pilot Butte). Funnest climb I've done around the Sisters.


thundercloud - May 25, 2007 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2001

NW Ridge  Sucess!

Cruised up from Green Lakes.

highice - Feb 1, 2007 7:44 pm

alpine face var.  Sucess!

we did a long snowshoe into the NW ridge and camped. scary log crossing with 3 ft of snow on its top was the hardest part of the climb. we saw a nice alpine ice face below the summit, so traversed out to this from the ridge and climbed to the top (about 200 ft?). couldn't see the rime awaiting until I was already in it, so this was a bit scary, but not like that darn log!


cascadetraveler - Sep 24, 2006 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2006

First day of Fall  Sucess!

It was the first day of Fall as We headed up The Green lakes trail at 7:15 a.m. It was a cool, brisk walk into the Green lakes basin. We headed east over trackless pumice fields to intercept climbers trail. It was cool and windy as we headed up the northwest ridge. We reached the cliff band were there was a bit of snow. We free climbed the cliff band and proceeded up the ramp to the summit. We enjoyed the views, snapped some pictures and ate some lunch. We headed back down to the cliff band acroos the rotten rock of the ramp. I carried a rope and some pro with me. It was decided to set up a rap station and by pass the cliff band and some Chossy rock to a belay ledge below. We then scree skied down the west flank and into the pumice fields below.

Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Sep 22, 2006 9:21 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 1999

Northwest Ridge  Sucess!

I day hiked this one by myself from the Broken Top TH. Nice long hike on a warm autumn day.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Sep 11, 2006 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2006

Second time up...  Sucess!

Second time up this cool mountain. This is a good annual climb. Quick & scenic. 70 deg at the summit at 10:00am and 90 deg at the car.


osatrik - Aug 28, 2006 2:59 am

SW ridge

In 1967 my girl friend's brother (my future brother-in-law) and I approached the mountain from the road to the east, crossed the mouth of the crater to the SW ridge, and scrambled as high as we felt safe.


cascadetraveler - Aug 14, 2006 4:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1997

A late report/ excellent climb  Sucess!

WE camped at the crater ditch trailhead above todd lake. we spent a cool night out under the stars and awoke to a crisp clear morning. We made excellent time to the eastern edge of green lakes basin. we then headed towards northwest ridge. we gained the ridge headed upwards until we hit the 10 foot cliff band that requires some bouldering skills or in are case a fixed line set to overcome the obstacle. we then set another rope along the ramp to the summit for some extra security for are group. I really enjoyed this one, a cool looking mountain with spectacular views and some rock climbing as a bonus.


Turbo - Aug 14, 2006 2:03 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2006

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge  Sucess!

It was probably a bit foolish, but my three climbing partners and I summitted this one just after midnight. We climbed together all summer and because of this late night summit we dubbed ourselves the 'Midnight Mountaineers.' Slept on a small level spot a few hundred feet below the summit and awoke to a spectacular view of the Three Sisters and the Black Crater forest fire that was burning near Sisters Oregon at the time of our climb.


awilsondc - Jul 31, 2006 5:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006

Route Climbed: NW Ridge via Todd Lake TH  Sucess!

Arrived at Green Lakes TH at 2:00 only to find it was closed for bridge installation. We decided to take the Todd Lake Trail as our alternate route which added 2.5 miles to the hike. We arrived at Green Lakes and set up camp at the furthest camp site (#28) and then began to scramble up the NW ridge. Once we reached the summit block I first looked right along the ledge for an easy route up. I didn't like it, so I looked left and found a pretty easy class 3/4 climb to the summit on the north side. We made the summit just as the sun was setting over the Three Sisters. After a few moments of enjoying the sunset, we descended via the west face scree fields. We finished the last 2 miles or so back to camp under one headlamp between the two of us. Great climb and great views from the summit.


Pawkala - May 19, 2006 12:36 am Date Climbed: May 16, 2006

South West Ridge Ski  Sucess!

Drove to west parking lot of Mount Bachelor and slept. Woke to glorious weather and firm snow. Left at 6:30 am and had a great ski tour in. The snow was soft enough by the time we got to the mountain to pack the skis and kick steps all the way up. Had great snow for the first half of the climb and then it turned to a scree climb. Summited by 12:30. Had a great ski down and toured back out in the hot weather and made it to the car just before the thunder storms at 4pm. GPS stated that the total distance was just shy of 6 miles each way. Make sure to take all the navagation tools you can, especially when there is still snow on the ground. Great trip.


cjwhat - Aug 19, 2005 2:24 am

Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: August 15, 2005  Sucess!

Followed group led by Emily. I was skeptical at first, but after exploring every possibility I concluded she actually knew the way. Brian_Jenkins told me it was easier than I thought. I was skeptical of that, too, but he was right. Parked at USFS Rd #380 Broken Top trailhead.

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