My first time up Broken Top. Fantastic climb, the exposure and summit block were not nearly as bad as I expected. Awesome scree descent from the summit. I love this mountain.
Second time up Broken Top via green lakes and NW Ridge. Great climb, my favorite in Oregon! The exposure at the top is not all that bad, just be careful of that infamous, lose, cascadian rock.
Dan Winter - Sep 29, 2012 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012
NW Ridge
The drive up to the Broken Top trail head is one of the most scenic and roughest roads I have been on. This climb was more fun than I had expected.
Nick Turtura - Jun 5, 2012 12:03 am Date Climbed: Oct 26, 2011
The Best
By far my favorite mountain in Oregon. A little of everything.
santanoni - Jan 13, 2012 11:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011
NW Ridge w/scree descent
The exposure at the top is not too bad, although magnified by its crumbling nature. The descent was quite fast going down the scree slopes. Green lakes were indeed green.
Climbed the NW Ridge on a beautiful fall day with Dan & Jim Butler. Approached from Park Meadow trailhead and used Golden Lake as a base for two nights out.
We intentionally left the rope at the truck and I'm glad we did. You'll want to be comfortable down-climbing the rock band (it's fairly steep). Our way past the crux was perhaps 30 feet right of the 'wide crack' on the rock band. The wide crack looked quite solid, but seemed a little more 'exposed'.
Cat Walk was a stroll - just don't dally about and fall off.
jaxcharlie - Jun 1, 2011 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2010
Unexpected Pleasure
I saw Broken Top in the distance after hiking up the Tam MacAurther Rim. So I hiked to it, but stopped short due to time contraints, and lack of sufficient food or water. I definitely want to come back!
Attempted the day after south sister, but just wasn't feeling up for it. Quit about 1/3 of the way up the ridge. I'll definitely come back for this one.
iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 2:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2002
Scree slog from hell
This was a nice day hike, but the scree is nasty. I'd much rather do this one in the winter and ski down.
kraymes - Jul 2, 2010 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Oct 9, 1990
South Face Gully
Let's just call this Class 4 and be done with it. Hard to understand the YDS ratings between 5.1 and 5.3.
jcking2447 - Dec 6, 2009 10:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2009
Awesome adventure!
Great hike in, scrambled up the NW ridge and scree skied down! so much fun!
I have climbed BT successfully twice, one with my friend Mike B., and once with the Obsidians. One of my favorite climbs with stupendous views. The last time, with the Obsidians, I left before the group to get sunrise pictures and got to with 200 feet of the summit in less than an hour from camp.
JGHarrison - Oct 13, 2009 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2009
NW Ridge
Great hike, we came from Green lakes area, up the ridge, went a bit right from the big crack (4-5 class). Some snow on the route but not anywhere near enough to necessitate snowgear. Really fun...
The Green Lakes Trail is now one of my favs, beautiful hike along the creek
rmick25 - Sep 4, 2009 3:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
NW Ridge from Green Lakes TH
Glad we didn't bring a rope. Climbed straight up from the crack on the summit block on a exposed 5.2? section instead of catwalk. Would recommend to all. If you aint scared of heights that is
Pallando - Aug 22, 2009 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009
NW Ridge from Green Lakes TH
Back again, left at 4:20 and made it up before 8. Enjoyed the summit for a while. Views were clear, Could see Adams to McGloughlin.
Pallando - Aug 8, 2009 11:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
NW Ridge from Green Lakes TH
Not a single mosquito! Got a late start (9:00) but was surprised when we made it at our liesurely pace up in 4:30. Faster than I remember.
Found a much nicer route on the summit block on our way down. Will definitely take it next time! Solid rock all the way up!
Great day out, hot, but fun...the rock was a lot more fun than people have described. Parts of the routes were a crumbly disaster, but a lot of it was fun scrambling, the traverse was great, the catwalk was a fun bit of exposure and the views from the top were amazing. I'd do it again. We went in via Green Lakes...the mosquitoes were voracious.
Long but enjoyable day starting from the Falls Creek TH. (Road 370 was gated). Still lots of snow on the trail up to Green Lakes. The crux turned out to be losing the route, ending up on the wrong side of the river and having to make a very hairy crossing to get back on track.
Went up to the saddle on the NW ridge directly from the south end of the first lake on firm scree or snow - unexpectedly pleasant and shorter than expected.
Roped up for the "dirty groove" on the ascent and rapped the "basalt corner" on the way down. Found the catwalk fine if a little sphincter tightening. Final few feet to the top no problem. No need for the rope except for that one short pitch.
About 12 hours round trip for us old guys. Stunning, clear weather after getting up to ice on the tents that morning.
Sirburtmund - Jun 2, 2013 1:55 pm
Awesome climb up 11 o'clock couloirAwesome climb, maybe my favorite ever. It really pushed me to a new level. Now I just want to climb hard stuff!
cyffredinol - May 20, 2013 1:30 am
Great climb!Definitely tested my fear of heights! Thanks to Magnus for leading and Andee for protecting the route.
wildernesspreston - Apr 4, 2013 9:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011
NW Ridge RouteMy first time up Broken Top. Fantastic climb, the exposure and summit block were not nearly as bad as I expected. Awesome scree descent from the summit. I love this mountain.
wildernesspreston - Apr 4, 2013 9:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2012
NW Ridge RouteSecond time up Broken Top via green lakes and NW Ridge. Great climb, my favorite in Oregon! The exposure at the top is not all that bad, just be careful of that infamous, lose, cascadian rock.
Dan Winter - Sep 29, 2012 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012
NW RidgeThe drive up to the Broken Top trail head is one of the most scenic and roughest roads I have been on. This climb was more fun than I had expected.
Nick Turtura - Jun 5, 2012 12:03 am Date Climbed: Oct 26, 2011
The BestBy far my favorite mountain in Oregon. A little of everything.
santanoni - Jan 13, 2012 11:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011
NW Ridge w/scree descentThe exposure at the top is not too bad, although magnified by its crumbling nature. The descent was quite fast going down the scree slopes. Green lakes were indeed green.
RetroGear - Sep 17, 2011 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2011
NW RidgeClimbed the NW Ridge on a beautiful fall day with Dan & Jim Butler. Approached from Park Meadow trailhead and used Golden Lake as a base for two nights out.
We intentionally left the rope at the truck and I'm glad we did. You'll want to be comfortable down-climbing the rock band (it's fairly steep). Our way past the crux was perhaps 30 feet right of the 'wide crack' on the rock band. The wide crack looked quite solid, but seemed a little more 'exposed'.
Cat Walk was a stroll - just don't dally about and fall off.
jaxcharlie - Jun 1, 2011 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2010
Unexpected PleasureI saw Broken Top in the distance after hiking up the Tam MacAurther Rim. So I hiked to it, but stopped short due to time contraints, and lack of sufficient food or water. I definitely want to come back!
OOG - Jan 27, 2011 11:47 pm
Green lakesAttempted the day after south sister, but just wasn't feeling up for it. Quit about 1/3 of the way up the ridge. I'll definitely come back for this one.
iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 2:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2002
Scree slog from hellThis was a nice day hike, but the scree is nasty. I'd much rather do this one in the winter and ski down.
kraymes - Jul 2, 2010 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Oct 9, 1990
South Face GullyLet's just call this Class 4 and be done with it. Hard to understand the YDS ratings between 5.1 and 5.3.
jcking2447 - Dec 6, 2009 10:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2009
Awesome adventure!Great hike in, scrambled up the NW ridge and scree skied down! so much fun!
alpinedon - Nov 22, 2009 4:17 pm
1st-3rd timesI have climbed BT successfully twice, one with my friend Mike B., and once with the Obsidians. One of my favorite climbs with stupendous views. The last time, with the Obsidians, I left before the group to get sunrise pictures and got to with 200 feet of the summit in less than an hour from camp.
JGHarrison - Oct 13, 2009 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2009
NW RidgeGreat hike, we came from Green lakes area, up the ridge, went a bit right from the big crack (4-5 class). Some snow on the route but not anywhere near enough to necessitate snowgear. Really fun...
The Green Lakes Trail is now one of my favs, beautiful hike along the creek
rmick25 - Sep 4, 2009 3:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
NW Ridge from Green Lakes THGlad we didn't bring a rope. Climbed straight up from the crack on the summit block on a exposed 5.2? section instead of catwalk. Would recommend to all. If you aint scared of heights that is
Pallando - Aug 22, 2009 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009
NW Ridge from Green Lakes THBack again, left at 4:20 and made it up before 8. Enjoyed the summit for a while. Views were clear, Could see Adams to McGloughlin.
Pallando - Aug 8, 2009 11:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
NW Ridge from Green Lakes THNot a single mosquito! Got a late start (9:00) but was surprised when we made it at our liesurely pace up in 4:30. Faster than I remember.
Found a much nicer route on the summit block on our way down. Will definitely take it next time! Solid rock all the way up!
amochka - Jul 28, 2009 3:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009
More fun than expectedGreat day out, hot, but fun...the rock was a lot more fun than people have described. Parts of the routes were a crumbly disaster, but a lot of it was fun scrambling, the traverse was great, the catwalk was a fun bit of exposure and the views from the top were amazing. I'd do it again. We went in via Green Lakes...the mosquitoes were voracious.
vancouver islander - Jul 8, 2009 12:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2009
NW RidgeLong but enjoyable day starting from the Falls Creek TH. (Road 370 was gated). Still lots of snow on the trail up to Green Lakes. The crux turned out to be losing the route, ending up on the wrong side of the river and having to make a very hairy crossing to get back on track.
Went up to the saddle on the NW ridge directly from the south end of the first lake on firm scree or snow - unexpectedly pleasant and shorter than expected.
Roped up for the "dirty groove" on the ascent and rapped the "basalt corner" on the way down. Found the catwalk fine if a little sphincter tightening. Final few feet to the top no problem. No need for the rope except for that one short pitch.
About 12 hours round trip for us old guys. Stunning, clear weather after getting up to ice on the tents that morning.
Great day.