Second time up this cool mountain. This is a good annual climb. Quick & scenic. 70 deg at the summit at 10:00am and 90 deg at the car.
In 1967 my girl friend's brother (my future brother-in-law) and I approached the mountain from the road to the east, crossed the mouth of the crater to the SW ridge, and scrambled as high as we felt safe.
WE camped at the crater ditch trailhead above todd lake. we spent a cool night out under the stars and awoke to a crisp clear morning. We made excellent time to the eastern edge of green lakes basin. we then headed towards northwest ridge. we gained the ridge headed upwards until we hit the 10 foot cliff band that requires some bouldering skills or in are case a fixed line set to overcome the obstacle. we then set another rope along the ramp to the summit for some extra security for are group. I really enjoyed this one, a cool looking mountain with spectacular views and some rock climbing as a bonus.
It was probably a bit foolish, but my three climbing partners and I summitted this one just after midnight. We climbed together all summer and because of this late night summit we dubbed ourselves the 'Midnight Mountaineers.' Slept on a small level spot a few hundred feet below the summit and awoke to a spectacular view of the Three Sisters and the Black Crater forest fire that was burning near Sisters Oregon at the time of our climb.
Arrived at Green Lakes TH at 2:00 only to find it was closed for bridge installation. We decided to take the Todd Lake Trail as our alternate route which added 2.5 miles to the hike. We arrived at Green Lakes and set up camp at the furthest camp site (#28) and then began to scramble up the NW ridge. Once we reached the summit block I first looked right along the ledge for an easy route up. I didn't like it, so I looked left and found a pretty easy class 3/4 climb to the summit on the north side. We made the summit just as the sun was setting over the Three Sisters. After a few moments of enjoying the sunset, we descended via the west face scree fields. We finished the last 2 miles or so back to camp under one headlamp between the two of us. Great climb and great views from the summit.
Drove to west parking lot of Mount Bachelor and slept. Woke to glorious weather and firm snow. Left at 6:30 am and had a great ski tour in. The snow was soft enough by the time we got to the mountain to pack the skis and kick steps all the way up. Had great snow for the first half of the climb and then it turned to a scree climb. Summited by 12:30. Had a great ski down and toured back out in the hot weather and made it to the car just before the thunder storms at 4pm. GPS stated that the total distance was just shy of 6 miles each way. Make sure to take all the navagation tools you can, especially when there is still snow on the ground. Great trip.
Followed group led by Emily. I was skeptical at first, but after exploring every possibility I concluded she actually knew the way. Brian_Jenkins told me it was easier than I thought. I was skeptical of that, too, but he was right. Parked at USFS Rd #380 Broken Top trailhead.
See Karl Helser's report below. Karl, it was a pleasure to get better acquainted! Don and Ardith, it was great to finally climb something together. Let's do it again! -Bob
I was honored to be able to summit this peak with a couple of real pros & veterans of Summit Post. Bob Bolton (RFBolton) and Don Nelson accompanied by his lovely girlfriend Ardith. We camped the night before, near and at the trailhead off of FR380/370. Four miles from the trailhead we took a scramble route straight towards the saddle in the northwest ridge bypassing the eastern shores of Green lakes. Once on the ridge the views of the surrounding area were awesome. (They were down below also.) We hit the summit block at about 11:00AM, leaving the trailhead at about 7:15AM. We believe we followed Brian Jenkins route up to the summit. Took a bit to find but once we found the route we were up in no time. We scree skied the descent down the western slope and scrambled back to the trail. Great day, excellent weather, and truly awesome company.
5.1?? The rock step is pretty solid and more in the realm of 4th Class climbing.
I climbed the Northwest Ridge on a beautiful day. The short scramble up the summit block was overrated, just be careful about kicking rocks down on other climbers.
Hiked into the bowl cause it had been a while since we had made any turns. Snow was good and had plenty to ski most the way down the bowl. Probably was able to make it up to about 8500 or so. Tons of little rocks on the snow from the surrounding cliffs and we had to slamon around all of those.
Good climb for winter, and a great summer climb if you don't have a full day. Watch the rock, though... it's pretty lousy. There are some incredible spires on the way up - I'd definitely like to go back and try some of them!
This was a nice relaxing day climb with the best views of the Sisters area. There was one move on the nose that we protected, although going to the left of it would have been easier. Thanks to the early start had the summit to ourselves, but saw many people going up as we were heading down.
My first summit of Broken Top and my second cascade volcano summit of many to come. Left Green Lakes camping area late afternoon after backpacking in for a weekend in the wilderness. With climbing buddies Dave, Scott, Rob and John we summited the north peak enjoying perfect weather and fantastic views. There had been a hard freeze a couple of days earlier so there were no mosquitoes anywhere. Fell in love with this most beautiful area of the cascades.
Broken top afforded some excellent views and bouldering opportunites. In late summer the summit can be reached without any gear save for a good pair of boots.
Went up to Green Lakes, then up to the saddle, and reached the summit block. It is a little exposed and my partner didn't feel confortable at all. So we didn't summit. We had a really nice lunch on the 'terrace' then hiked back down. It was a beautiful sunny day but there were lots of smoke clouds in the distance.
I'll go there again I think.
An excellent winter climb, albeit quite demanding due to the long approach --- how hard this is depends entirely on the terrain. I attempted this once before in 1998 and we tried to climb the 3oclock couloir, but were stymied at the saddle by nasty double cornices all the way up the summit rim.
The 11oclock couloir is gorgeous --- the nicest winter route in my opinion. Great views, exciting aesthetic climbing, and a super summit.
Last time I climbed this I eyed an alternate finish from the North Ridge that looked interesting. After climbing the 8 foot crack, the standard finish is to traverse south around the rock ridge and back to the summit. But, this time I decided to try to continue directly up the NorthWest Ridge all the way to the summit.
This variation is listed as route 26A in Jeff Thomas' Oregon High. It's about 50 feet of 5.4 climbing on pretty solid (at least compared to the rest of the mountsin) rock. The northwest ridge peters out into a 6 foot wide rock fin after the first crack and this is where the standard route begins traversing to the south. Instead, we roped up and climbed straight up the rock fin directly to the summit. The climbing is quite nice with great exposure off both sides of the fin. It protects OK and the rock is generally sound.
Although the climbing is only 1 short pitch, it's more interesting than the standard traverse. I recommend it to anyone looking for a slightly more adventurous option.
See Cornvallis's entry below. I found the crux crack less exposed than I expected. We brought a rope for rappelling, but didn't use it. There seem to be two easier alternatives for downclimbing. One is slightly to the east of the NW corner and the other is 20 ft south. The second one was marked with a cairn when we were there. The rock is a little looser than that in the crack, but easy to downclimb facing out with less exposure. Views from Broken Top can't be beat. I'm definitely going back when the visibility is better.