See Karl Helser's report below. Karl, it was a pleasure to get better acquainted! Don and Ardith, it was great to finally climb something together. Let's do it again! -Bob
I was honored to be able to summit this peak with a couple of real pros & veterans of Summit Post. Bob Bolton (RFBolton) and Don Nelson accompanied by his lovely girlfriend Ardith. We camped the night before, near and at the trailhead off of FR380/370. Four miles from the trailhead we took a scramble route straight towards the saddle in the northwest ridge bypassing the eastern shores of Green lakes. Once on the ridge the views of the surrounding area were awesome. (They were down below also.) We hit the summit block at about 11:00AM, leaving the trailhead at about 7:15AM. We believe we followed Brian Jenkins route up to the summit. Took a bit to find but once we found the route we were up in no time. We scree skied the descent down the western slope and scrambled back to the trail. Great day, excellent weather, and truly awesome company.
5.1?? The rock step is pretty solid and more in the realm of 4th Class climbing.
I climbed the Northwest Ridge on a beautiful day. The short scramble up the summit block was overrated, just be careful about kicking rocks down on other climbers.
Hiked into the bowl cause it had been a while since we had made any turns. Snow was good and had plenty to ski most the way down the bowl. Probably was able to make it up to about 8500 or so. Tons of little rocks on the snow from the surrounding cliffs and we had to slamon around all of those.
Good climb for winter, and a great summer climb if you don't have a full day. Watch the rock, though... it's pretty lousy. There are some incredible spires on the way up - I'd definitely like to go back and try some of them!
This was a nice relaxing day climb with the best views of the Sisters area. There was one move on the nose that we protected, although going to the left of it would have been easier. Thanks to the early start had the summit to ourselves, but saw many people going up as we were heading down.
My first summit of Broken Top and my second cascade volcano summit of many to come. Left Green Lakes camping area late afternoon after backpacking in for a weekend in the wilderness. With climbing buddies Dave, Scott, Rob and John we summited the north peak enjoying perfect weather and fantastic views. There had been a hard freeze a couple of days earlier so there were no mosquitoes anywhere. Fell in love with this most beautiful area of the cascades.
Broken top afforded some excellent views and bouldering opportunites. In late summer the summit can be reached without any gear save for a good pair of boots.
Went up to Green Lakes, then up to the saddle, and reached the summit block. It is a little exposed and my partner didn't feel confortable at all. So we didn't summit. We had a really nice lunch on the 'terrace' then hiked back down. It was a beautiful sunny day but there were lots of smoke clouds in the distance.
I'll go there again I think.
An excellent winter climb, albeit quite demanding due to the long approach --- how hard this is depends entirely on the terrain. I attempted this once before in 1998 and we tried to climb the 3oclock couloir, but were stymied at the saddle by nasty double cornices all the way up the summit rim.
The 11oclock couloir is gorgeous --- the nicest winter route in my opinion. Great views, exciting aesthetic climbing, and a super summit.
Last time I climbed this I eyed an alternate finish from the North Ridge that looked interesting. After climbing the 8 foot crack, the standard finish is to traverse south around the rock ridge and back to the summit. But, this time I decided to try to continue directly up the NorthWest Ridge all the way to the summit.
This variation is listed as route 26A in Jeff Thomas' Oregon High. It's about 50 feet of 5.4 climbing on pretty solid (at least compared to the rest of the mountsin) rock. The northwest ridge peters out into a 6 foot wide rock fin after the first crack and this is where the standard route begins traversing to the south. Instead, we roped up and climbed straight up the rock fin directly to the summit. The climbing is quite nice with great exposure off both sides of the fin. It protects OK and the rock is generally sound.
Although the climbing is only 1 short pitch, it's more interesting than the standard traverse. I recommend it to anyone looking for a slightly more adventurous option.
See Cornvallis's entry below. I found the crux crack less exposed than I expected. We brought a rope for rappelling, but didn't use it. There seem to be two easier alternatives for downclimbing. One is slightly to the east of the NW corner and the other is 20 ft south. The second one was marked with a cairn when we were there. The rock is a little looser than that in the crack, but easy to downclimb facing out with less exposure. Views from Broken Top can't be beat. I'm definitely going back when the visibility is better.
Joined up with dkantola again for this one. Left the trailhead at 5:30 AM and were the first ones to the summit by a little after 9 AM. Enjoyed the warm and windless summit for over an hour, at least half of that time to ourselves. Best views of the Sister's you'll find. Air was very smoky from the nearby fires, eventually limited our view to just the Sister's and Bachelor. Down climb was easy....I think we found the "nice semi-chimney" that Brian Jenkins refers to, it is about 15-20 ft. to the south of the nice crack you should climb up. As we headed down the trail from the Green Lakes area we passed what must of been nearly 100 people, mostly all day hikers. Very popular area, rightfully so, it is beautiful!
NOTE: If you decide to take the easy way down the huge scree slopes of the west face be careful of rock fall caused by others. Watched some large rocks with heat seeking ability target three quick acting guys on two separate occasions.
We left Green Lakes at 10AM. Three of us reached the
summit about 1PM. Awesome views straight down
into the crater. No wind, beautiful warm sun. Deathly
exposure if you should slip! Scree-skiied down West
slope. I also climbed Broken Top in Aug 1986.
Amazing day. No crowds, perfect weather, and a whole lot of scree. Spent the night at the trailhead at the end of Road 380, got a late start, but made the summit in 2 hrs. After a 2 hr. summit nap, ran down the scree and where in Bend for happy hour.
I solo climbed this leaving the trailhead at 4:00 am and summited a little after 9:00. great view, it was the first time i have been able to see all the way from hood to mcloughlin. I free climbed up a crack on the east edge of the summit block that was a little scary, but was pretty fun. falling would definitely have sucked since there would be absolutely no chance of breaking a fall and it is a looong steep rocky way down. saw about 12 people coming up as i was descending from the saddle.
sunny, perfect day, perfect glissading snow!
Our group of 6 left around 6am, ascended the snowfield on the West Slope, and climbed around precarious rocky pinnacles but we were on the wrong side to acheive the true summit. That's for another day. Glissade down was phenomenol, sunburn was minimal, views couldn't be beat!
One day solo of my first Cascade volcano. Gorgeous views from Mt. Adams in Washington to Mt. Shasta in California and every volcano in between.
My wife and I climbed this peak in perfect weather last Saturday. For a while fast-moving clouds appeared as we were approachig the summit but they dissipated equally fast. The peak had two personal records for us: 1. the worst 'rock' we've encountered to date and 2. the longest summit stay - 2.5 hrs. of chillin' in perfect weather with a beautiful view stretching from Hood to Thielsen (McLaughlin perhaps?). Brought a 9mm rope (for rappeling) but it was totally unnecessary as the route (if you find the correct one) is easily downclimbable.