Bubbas In Bondage

Starting up Bubbas In Bondage on Picnic Lunch Wall. Easy & safe aid made more interesting by 2 hook moves ...for me anyways (Fall 2008).

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Marcsoltan

Marcsoltan - Dec 8, 2008 11:05 pm - Voted 10/10

Have a question

Is this an aid route, or are you placing bolts for a later free ascent? In any case, the photos are great. And your "Mountain and Rock" page on Smith Rock is more like a guide book than just another page. Fantastic job,
Happy climbing,
marc

rpc

rpc - Dec 8, 2008 11:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Have a question

Marc,
thanks for good words. It's an early 80's aid line (it's actually a direct 2 pitch start to a longer aid line) the 1st pitch of which someone retrobolted into a free pitch (& freed at 11+). 1st pitch used to go at A3, now goes at C1.

Marcsoltan

Marcsoltan - Dec 9, 2008 12:28 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Have a question

Wow, that comes as a surprise to me! Used to go as A1, now goes as C1. I could have easily reversed those ratings.

Thanks for the explanation.
Marc

rpc

rpc - Dec 9, 2008 12:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Have a question

Marc,
it went from A3 (thin hammering I think) to about C1 (hammerless & easy) with the addition of bolts (I'd guess by people who first freed it???). Is this ethical? Probably not I'd guess but aid climbing is a dying activity in OR with no real voice to protest such things (now if this was around Moab, would be a different story). Thanks for visiting & kind words.

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