Excellent route up the North Face. Bivied on Boston Glacier the night before.
Long day with Mazamas. Horshoe Basin is TERRIBLE.
2 days of whiteout on Sahale but we finally summited. We spent another wet cold night on the glacier and headed around Sahale. The fog got worse and the snow became really soft. It turned to a complete whiteout so we headed back. We left the next morning to climb in the East. We heard that the weather cleared though
Crossed the Boston Glacier from Sahale and Boston, then up the face to the summit in ~5h30 from the car. Perfect step-kicking snow, and the bergschrund was thankfully still bridged on one side. A few crevasses, but much easier than the glacier crossing to Dorado Needle. Trip report.
Climbed after Sahale. Hot and soft snow.
Climbed with Karl, Ron and Rich (and picked up a guy named Nicolai on the way). Started 6 am Saturday morning. Rich and Ron split from us to do the Horseshoe Basin approach while Karl and I hiked up to Sahale Glacier Camp. From there we descended to the Sahale Ridge and onto the rock. Searched and found the right (there really is only one) way down to the 4th class downclimb but the snow finger looked nasty with deep moats so we went off right and scrambled down around the bottom of the ridge (lost about 1200 feet total). Traversed around Horseshoe Basin to a spot about 7100 feet above the prominent rock there where we saw Rich and Ron climbing up from the basin below. Set up a planned bivy and were met and joined by Nicolai/Two Dog Daddy who was soloing it.
Long, cold, sleepless night trying to stay warm in a bivy sack with no bag (brilliant idea I had to save weight). Started again around 6 am traversing over to the hourglass on styrofoam snow. Not sure if it was because this is later in the season than it seems most do this peak but seemed steeper than the 40 degrees as advertised. At least 45 if not a little more. Ron climbed the snow, Karl went left moat, then snow. Nicolai scrambled the rock on the right and Rich and I went moat, rock, back into the moat, dead end at waterfall, 5th class snow move out of the moat back onto snow. We all ended up scrambled some loose 3rd class stuff below the summit pinnacle and then an easy scramble up the final 100 or so feet. Found a way to scrambled the rock all the way down (with two short snow traverses) below the hour glass and back to camp about 1 pm.
Decided to take Horseshoe Basin out and angled left from camp to the trees. From there it was the bushwhack from hell with minor cliff-outs, hanging from bent tree limbs with feet dangling, swarms of flies down to the valley below where we found several rushing creeks to cross. Karl ended up barefooting it while the rest of us built foot bridges with tree trunks to cross and find the trail out. Back to the cars via headlamps by 12:50 am. Called in sick to work today and after being up for the last 56 hours with two 45 minute naps on the drive back to Portland, headed to sleep now....................
Big climb. Fun climb. Good people. Lots of memories. Don't need to do Buckner again though. :-)
Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. Did SW slope, relatively easy scramble. Summit provides one of the best views anywhere, right in the heart of the best stuff in the North Cascades.
Very good weather, amazing views, good friends. Dropped my camera on way down...good buy to pics and camera into Horseshoe Basin faster than a speeding bullet. Rats!!!
Summited via The North Face during a long day of kicking steps. Lots of snow in July.
Climbed the North Face in a casual two days. Bivied in the middle of the expansive Boston Glacier.
Great climb with great partners. Ericnoel, redwic, and gimpilator all helped get my butt on the summit and safely back down.
We made the SW summit just fine right before the weather started going downhill. This is one of the most scenic areas in WA to my eye. All in all it was a good trip with some adventurous moments.
This summit trek had a little of everything. It also had an abundance of snow-loving invertebrates... such as tiny black worms, big black spiders, ants, flies, and even one caterpillar. Marmots were all over Sahale Arm. Even the "easier" southwest approach for Buckner Mountain is a grind, but this is one of my favorite summit treks to date, and one I will look fondly back on the experience in the future.
Also... I concur with peakbagging extraordinaire Edward Earl's assessment (along with MANY others) that the southwest peak is definitely higher than the northeast peak. For me, this was Washington CoHP #22 (out of 39).
Rock fall, multiple avalanches, scrambling on loose dirt and rock, veggie belays, steep snow climbing, glaciers, waterfalls, wet slabs, and a whiteout. This climb had a little bit of everything. Eric surprised us all with his speed. Ken helped change our flat tire on the cascade river road. Denis demonstrated the proper way to self-arrest after taking a fall on the steepest part of the route. And Craig helped me find the tent in a whiteout.
Simply a classic! Didn't see a soul aside from our group. Good fun climbing and plenty of exposure.
Wow. My new favorite mountain. After Cascade Pass, I didn't see anyone. The crux was the bush getting into the upper basin. The rest was an open snow slope. Supreme views from the summit. I will be back.
Bivied on Sahale glacier. Dropped down nasty cl 3/4 ridge and steep snow finger to upper Horseshoe basin. Started at 5am. Took icy snow whole way to summit with a little class 3 rock on top. At summit at 8.30am, spectacular 360 views! Downclimbed 40-45 degree ice facing in for 1,000 feet, then eventually back to slushy snow. Took 14.5 hours on the go with a bivi 3.5 hours into it. Did about 7,500 feet vertical for round trip! Magnificent experience! Second time doing this mountain.
There is another way! (for those of us who are not world class climbers). We hiked to Cascade Pass and up Sahale Arm and camped in bomber, knock -your -socks -off -views sites on the Sahale Glacier. Then we dropped down into Horseshoe Basin and traversed it below Ripsaw Ridge to the saddle below the summit block.
Duane and I joined a Mazamas climb. We hiked to Sahale glacier camp on Friday, traversed through Horseshoe Basin to the summit and back on Saturday. The weather was worsening during the day, and the wind and rain started as we began the climb back up to camp. Sunday morning we loaded up and hiked out in the storm. Great peak with fantastic views of the North Cascades.
Posted on 16 Jan 2007: With great sorrow I announce the passing of our esteemed leader on this climb. Ed Holt was a senior climbing leader with the Mazamas, and he was a friend who had recently retired from my place of work. He had a heart attack while skiing on Mt. Hood on Saturday 13 Jan 2007. He will be sorely missed by many. In our summit photo below, he is standing with the red jacket. I'm standing next to him on the far right. Ed, may you rest in peace my friend.