Bugaboo Spire Climber's Log

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SarahThompson - Aug 27, 2017 5:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2017

NE Ridge  Sucess!

Swapped leads with Dom up the classic northeast ridge. 9 pitches plus one to reach the south summit (highpoint) after the traverse. Descent of the Kain Route seemed to take forever, but the views were great. I liked both Snowpatch Spire and Pigeon Spire better.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Sep 13, 2016 11:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2016

NE Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the classic NE ridge with Etai and descended the Kain. The descent down from the Snowpatch/Bugaboo col was not too bad in my tennis shoes. Lots of loose scree covering ice lower down after the rappels. The climb itself was beautiful


beean - Aug 15, 2014 8:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014

Kain Route  Sucess!

Nice relaxing day on the Kain Route. Descended via Snowpatch due to rockfall in the Snowpatch/Bugaboo col.

Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Aug 24, 2013 10:52 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2013

Kain Route  Sucess!

Camped at Appleby, left at 6, summited at 12, got down to camp at 5. Nice leisurely day with an incredible summit. The gendarme pitch is stunning. We brought a 70m rope and it wasn't helpful. All the raps are set up for 60m ropes so we just had to deal with 50 extra feet of rope each time. Bring a 60m and save yourselves the pain


Mooner - Aug 17, 2013 10:04 am

Up I Go

08/15/13 Solo via Kain Route. Climbed after solo up Pigeon. Took 2 hours from beginning of ridge to Summit. Final 5.6 pitch was exposed and all there.
08/18/14 via North East Ridge with Jackson M. Not the best climb I have ever done but one of if not thee most beautiful climb I have done.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Sep 6, 2012 11:18 am

NE ridge  Sucess!

cool climb, with lines to prove it. Fairly easy.


bearbnz - Aug 4, 2012 6:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

Kain  Sucess!

Fun route, had it to ourselves as the weather looked iffy and everyone else bailed. No rain until we got back to camp.


hunterslee - Oct 23, 2011 1:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2011

Kain Route  Sucess!

Fantastic route, that is a committing move on the Genderme. Will hit up the North-East Ridge next time I'm there.

Bezoar Goat

Bezoar Goat - Mar 1, 2011 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1997

enlightenment  Sucess!

Oh what a summer that was...


Nefsek - Nov 12, 2010 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2010

NE Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed in perfect conditions, my first super long alpine rock outing, and first time to Canada. I'll never forget it!


danman3156 - Sep 15, 2010 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010

Northeast Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the northeast ridge. Fun route, amazing looking line! We started at noon and decended the Kain route getting back to camp after dark.


bc44caesar - Sep 6, 2010 11:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010

Multiple  Sucess!

15 Aug 2010 - Kain Route
Climbed the route in boots, belayed three pitches - two lower down, and then the gendarme pitch. The latter was very exciting for a 5.6. I also got my boot stuck in the groove leading up to the gendarme. That too made things very exciting. Be sure to stay on the ridge on the descent, we let ourselves go down on the face before realizing our mistake and regaining the ridge.

16 Aug 2010 - Northeast Ridge
Fantastic route! Fun climbing on several pitches, and a full day out. We belayed the first five pitches, then simulclimbed the rest. The final traverse to the north summit was exciting, and the summit views are just incredible. Having reconned the descent the day before, we made our way down relatively quickly. I would recommend climbing the Kain Route first unless you are very good at route finding and can climb the route quickly.


Vinny - May 26, 2010 7:47 pm

Snowed of the Kain route

fun times with Marty, Chrsi and Pierre but alas - weather did not cooperate.


builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 4:05 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009

NE Ridge  Sucess!

The NE Ridge is a classic for good reason. Brian (dunsum) dragged me up this one, leading the entire way. I think we did it pretty quickly--about 12 hours camp to camp as I recall.

The wind, cold and exposure made this feel more serious than it was, but that's part of why it was such a great route.


dunsum - Aug 22, 2009 6:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009

NE Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the NE Ridge with Brenton Peterson on a gloriously overcast, chilly, and varyingly-windy day! Superb!!!!


bfrench - Apr 30, 2009 10:17 pm

Bugaboo Spire  Sucess!



alejandro - Oct 18, 2008 9:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

On the Kain Route  Sucess!

It's definitely a climb I will remember. First, you think it's a piece of cake, then you're sweating on the Gendarme trying to get an anchor out of a crack while your calves are burning. It was quite an accomplishment! Go for it!


JanG - Aug 26, 2008 5:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008

South East Ridge (Kain route)  Sucess!

This is one of the most memorable climbs that I ever did. The most difficult moves are in the same league as the crux pitches on Mt Whitney (East Face or Buttress), Grand Teton (Upper Exum Ridge) or Matterhorn (Hornli Ridge). I am specifically referring to successfully climbing the very exposed Gendarme close to the summit. Fortunately for me (and for my sons Christoph & Alexander), at that juncture we were greatly helped by Geoff and Luke, the guides provided to us by Canadian Mountain Holidays.

The view from the top is absolutely unforgettable!


GCutforth - Nov 30, 2007 1:49 am

Kain Route  Sucess!

Great day out. A bit of a grovelling start, but the top few rope lengths were amazing. Working the gendarme going up and down was the highlight. Funny story as my climbing partner that day had a cannister of cayenne pepper open in his pants pocket enroute. Hence the birth of my man Chili Pepper Jim.


AJones - Nov 10, 2007 9:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 1996

Northeast Ridge & Kain Route  Sucess!

We climbed the Kain Route first, and then the Northeast ridge a couple of days later. This is helpful, as then you know the descent for the Northeast Ridge. We did both routes in stellar weather and had a great time. I did lose my helmut on the descent (took it off to rest, forgot to put it back on)

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