Climbed this peak three times. Twice via the NE ridge (2004 and 2006) and once via the Kain route (2005). Although the NE ridge is the better route, the Kain is definitely a classic alpine ridge. Plus the Kain step does get the heart going for a few seconds there!
Climbed the NE ridge. Apparently we are a bit slow as it took us 21 hours hut to hut. But we also had to rap the NE ridge with one single rope as the slabs over to the Kain Route were covered in ice and snow. We had already had enough fun with snow in the chimneys on the NE ridge. Loved the finger crack pitches, the chimneys were a bit awkward, but one of the best climbs I have ever been on. It was crazy looking back up at the route from the Kain Hut and thinking that we had climbed that ridge. Truly awe-inspiring!
Climbed Kain route with my freind Ad from Holland. Superb climbing in excellent weather. A guided team behind us.
The NE Ridge with CClaude, Pvalchev on August 25, 2006. These Bugaboo Spires are classic climbs for good reason, much better rock than we are used to in the Rockies. We converted 12 pitches into 9 and divided up the lead in groups of three. Do your damndest to carry light packs. You will thank yourself many times, particularly on the summit traverse. Hell, if I did it again, I would carry tennis shoes and attach mini crampons to those for the glacier travel, including descending the col, which no doubt would suck, but be worth it. To much weight in our packs for such a long rock day.
I underestimated this climb! But, it's truly a classic. I did not underestimate the descent. Everyone talked about how hard it was. I guess that prepared me - thought it was pretty easy. The view of the route from the base is jaw-dropping! Heck, all the views are.
An enjoyable day with Dow and CClaude. The traverse and descent are not straightforward which must be why so many people get benighted on the mountain - it's a long way. The Snowpatch/Bugaboo col is ugly as of summer 2006!
My first rock climb outside Mexico. I loved the mountains.
Got stormed off the bottom of the ridge. Need to go back there hopefully this summer.
With E Sandbo, P Jacobowski & B Brown. One of the best rock climbs I've ever done. Excellent granite and wonderful route in a fantastic setting. This is a must do climb!
I climbed this outstanding route with Graham Johnson. It is humbling to imagine Conrad Kain climbing the gendarme pitch back in 1916 in cork-sole boots. We menaged to gett our rope stuck on the first rappel. There were lots of people on the route, which made the going very slow. All things considered, this is a great route of historic importance on very high quality granite.